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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,284 total, 12/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Sep 22, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is located in the large, left-facing dihedral on the Southeast side of Valley Massif, clearly visible on the approach. Scramble up to the base of the dihedral and then ascend the thin seam (crux) which widens after about 25-30 feet, exiting left under the roof via an easy, "stimulating" traverse. Belay on a small ledge just around the corner. Continue on easy ground to the top, or rappel here from slings. Adequate, although not effortless, protection can be had through the crux section with RPs and small Aliens.

Protection

RPs to #4 Friend. Doubles in #3 and #4 Friend recommended.

Photos

Nat T.
Flagstaff, AZ
5.10c
Nat T.   Flagstaff, AZ
5.10c
Awesome route! I was able to sew up the thin beginning with the help of some ball nuts, along with small Aliens and small stoppers as well. I only had the two smallest ball nut sizes but could have used some mids too. You can protect and still use the hold due to their small head size. Sep 22, 2013
Place at your waist and the finger locks are still useful. May 6, 2012
Kevin P
Loveland
 
Kevin P   Loveland
 
I was able to protect the first section fairly comfortably with 00, 0, and 1 Master Cams. Extra #3 Camalots are nice for the upper section. The crux is kind of high above the smallest cam placement though. Sep 27, 2011
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Maybe the best route at the crag. Sep 20, 2007
Joe Collins
  5.10c
Joe Collins  
  5.10c
Oh... and another thing... placing a bolted line between Hooker and Blue Steel would be a squeezed eyesore. I gotta side with the disgruntled AC/Laramie local on this one. These are two very good gear lines separated by 15 feet at the most. Bolts on this face could conceiveably be clipped from either Blue Steel or Hooker. Keep it as TR and save the bolts for something else. Sep 29, 2003
Joe Collins
  5.10c
Joe Collins  
  5.10c
Heel & Toe makes the comment that the 10c rating takes into account the difficulty in protecting the first 25 feet. This didn't make any sense to me until I led it. The seam doesn't take gear, except for a few pin scars which only take cams. So in other words, if you want pro, you have to plug up the finger locks. I got a good RP just before what felt like the crux, but besides that, nut placements would probably be mank in the first half of the climb. A fun climb that is more reminiscent of Lumpy than Vedauwoo and is harder than it looks.

Too short to be a classic, but it shouldn't be missed if you make the hike out to the Valley Massif.

The best handholds get plugged up with cams at the hard parts (best to place the cams once you get past the fingerlocks). If you're better on slabs than cracks, which I am not, this might feel easy for Vedauwoo-10c. Sep 29, 2003
Since when did the owner of the previous comment start speaking for everyone local to Vedauwoo? Personally, I find all this 'poor Laramie' garbage over the H&T guide book embarrassing. At least the Greenies have open minds. Even with the guide book, Vedauwoo gets nowhere near the traffic other areas have, and except for Central Vedauwoo, which is a hot spot for any newcomer, there are more than enough climbs to go around.I've seen some bolts installed by Vedauwoo locals this season too. Sounds like a double standard here. Sep 23, 2002
Too damn many bolts in Vadauwoo as it is. Climb all the other bolted slab routes first, then you'll see all slab routes are essentially the same, and not worth bolting. Please come enjoy our great trad routes, there are plenty of FA's on cracks waiting to be done, leave the drill at home. No one here respects new slab routes, it will only get you jeered at and scorned by the locals. Example - Heel and Toe authors, they really aren't liked or welcomed around here. Sep 6, 2002
Great route with a fairly soft rating(for Vedewoo!).We slung one of the big blocks under the roof and top-roped the face straight up the middle just to the left and it was fantastic! A little friable here and there but maybe worth bolting. Probably lld/12a. Dec 31, 2001