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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,247 total, 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is probably the finest sustained handcrack that I have done to date in Vedauwoo.

The route lies on the West side fo the Valley Massif. You must climb the first Pitch of the route "Hammer" to a bolted belay to get to Tool Or Die.

Hammer is a fun first pitch (5.7 or 5.8), but as I have only done 1/2 of said route, and I am sure many have done the whole route, I do not feel qualified to write about the rest here. Perhaps, someone who has done the whole route can add it to the site?

From the bolted belay, work a few feet up the Hammer crack, placing a piece on a 2' sling. Grab a huge undercling flake and work another piece up in it, while moving to its right-hand-side. Place a good small stopper (maybe #5 or #6 BD?) in a small bottomed out crack. You see the crack up and to your right about 10 feet? Well, you have to get to that. As stated in the book, this crack is a 5.9. Getting to it, however...

Now, do the crux. Move up and left of the undercling flake one of several ways, probably up to a left-lieback, stem right, and then sink in the fingers far to your right. Make a few moves up here to reach the handcrack. Good gear is available the whole way, but if you are pushing your grades at 5.10a, you probably either just did a runout or fell fidgeting with gear.

You will finish at the top on a bolted anchor. Rap twice to the ground, or ONCE with a 70m. A two-rope rap is not recommended, because you might get them stuck in the nearby cracks.

Protection

A few stoppers small to midrange, plus a handful of hand-sized cams are needed for this pitch.

Photos

K Gustafson  
 
After I finished Nail, I did the mixed line "King of Coney Island" and rapped into "Tool or Die". Not sure how I would grade this climb. Perhaps a 5.10 move above a small piece (yellow Alien) into the crack and then a beautiful 5.7/8 handcrack. Thought the handcrack was going to be more difficult than it was. I don't often recommend this, but don't tie knots on the ends of your rope when rapping off "Tool or Die". I definitely got a knot stuck in the left crack and there are plenty or ropes that have been cut and are still in the neighboring cracks. Sep 12, 2016
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
 
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
 
Bomber yellow Alien exists high and right in the flake before committing to the crux move. I found this to be substantially harder than other 5.10s in the area, but maybe I botched the sequence.

Probably the finest 5.9 handcrack around. Jun 16, 2015
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Climbed this on our first trip to The Voo in July 2013.

This is definitely the money pitch on the formation. The crux for me was bridging Hammer crack to this one off the belay with a crazy left-hand finger lock/high-wide right-foot stem move. Once established in the main crack, the movement and position is outstanding and had me gesticulating with joy down to my belayer the whole time. Jul 18, 2013
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
It may have been my own experience, but I didn't think the pro was that great to protect the crux. Below are some bomber nut placements and above is a nice finger slot for a yellow Alien, but the few moves of the crux are stout and insecure, gear placement is tricky and you will probably hit the ledge if you're unable to get something solid in above the crux. That said, this is a great climb, just takes some careful work to get to the hand crack. Jul 9, 2009
Colin Coulson
  5.9
Colin Coulson  
  5.9
Funky entrance, and a GREAT hand crack... very unlike Vedawoo. It is possible to toprope hammer off of the bolts - a fun experiment to see how much more whipped you feel after an offwidth that is at least a grade easier. Sep 12, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Super sweet. Do p.1 of Hammer, and then just keep motoring right into Tool Or Die. Two decent stoppers can be placed before moving off the flake (i.e. right before committing to the crux "inverted V-slot"), and from there to the top, it's nothing but slamma jamma. Jul 18, 2005
It is a climb that is well worth doing. Beautiful setting, beautiful crack, great pro. I actually went straight up then right on the crux, and it was a couple of fun moves. You can protect the crux below the hanging flake, than just move till you get into the hand crack. Great climb!!! Sep 2, 2002