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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,697 total, 13/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is located to left side of the Northwest face.

It will be the crack system that is directly right of the large roof. The crack is mostly fist-sized that works its way over two bulges. The bulges are the cruxes of the climb. You can do the climb in one pitch (60m rope), but to minimize rope drag, you can setup a belay on the ledge before the first bulge. There are anchors at the top belay.

Scramble up the chimney to walk off to the left.

Protection

I found a #3.5 Camalot helpful to protect the moves through the second bulge.

Photos

Sarah Meiser
Boulder, Colorado
  5.7
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, Colorado
  5.7
The Orenczak/Lynn guide lists this as a 5.5 but then talks about 5.7 and 5.8 cruxes in the description. Certainly felt harder than Voo 5.5. May 7, 2017
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
The bulge near the top seemed like a 5.8 move to me. In UK terms it's mostly HS 4a with a VS 5a crux. Good climbing, great line. Oct 10, 2015
Katie Foster
Laramie, Wy
  5.7
Katie Foster   Laramie, Wy
  5.7
I led this last weekend as one long pitch and would say that the 5.5 rating seems too low. To me, 5.5 means it's a great climb to take a brand new beginner on, or would be a great first lead, and I would recommend many 5.6s and 5.7s in the area for a first lead over this one. Not necessarily a good intro route. Jul 14, 2015
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.5
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.5
Fun climb. If you resort to chimneying at the bulges, the cruxes really aren't that hard, and there is great pro. Jul 27, 2009
jeffrey heddings
denver,CO
 
jeffrey heddings   denver,CO
 
Fun but grunty. 5.6 is a better grade. it will still see all the traffic, but parties will be more ready. A great beginner CHALLENGE, and that is what it's about. Jul 12, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.5
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.5
5.5 felt about right for this, although it took some looking (and a little bravery on my part, my ego wouldn't let me fall on a 5.5) to find the right sequence. If you string the two pitches together, a double set of Camalots #0.75 to #3 with a little bit above and a set of nuts protected this very well. The second crux did feel more difficult than the crux of Edward's Crack, but I've done Ed's so many times that it all feels easy to me. Apr 28, 2007
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
Climbed 6/11/06 with H. McIntyre...the guidebook recommends this for the 'beginning' leader. Pro is good, but the upper bulge crux felt rather stiffer than the given 5.easy grade. Rap chains require two ropes! BTW the other two rap stations (70') indicated in the guidebook above Screw have been removed. Jun 12, 2006
KevinCO
Loveland, CO
KevinCO   Loveland, CO
If you like traverses (and Vedauvoo has some great ones, i.e. Journey to Coramonde; NE Cutoff; Hair Lip; Captain Nemo; Golden Grief; from EO Lieback to the top of 5.11 Crack; Grand Traverse; etc.), try this: Start up Soft Touch and traverse across the horizontal crack to Screw. It starts easy and progressively gets harder. Fist jams are required and then a very thin and off balance mantle to stem across to Screw. Take 1 or 2 #4 Camalots and assorted medium and large cams (If I remember correctly, I think that I used a Big Dude.). Don't run it out because of the ground fall potential. Protect your second! This route doesn't have the best position, but for anyone that loves traverses, it is worth the price of admission. I believe I had the FA since there were potato chip flakes that broke off at key hold areas. The last 3-4 moves are .9. Mar 24, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
This is a very good route, especially for the grade.... Jun 10, 2005
Just to the right of the anchors on top of the 2nd pitch there are other anchors with chains you can rap from. There is a little warning sign that two rope rappel is needed. We made it fine with 2x60m ropes, I think 2x50m will also do it. Jun 24, 2002