Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Royal and Liz Robbins, 1964
Page Views: 3,958 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tyson Arp on May 23, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

64 Opinions

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This route starts at the high point between Superpin and Tent Peg. Climb the obvious wide crack. At the end of the crack, traverse right around to the other side of the spire. This is easy at first then more difficult (use the force if necessary--it worked for me). The route finishes up a short but unprotected face.

Be mindful of the way your rope is running. You'll need to place a long runner when you least want to.

A one rope rappel will get you back to the ground.


Medium to large cams for the beginning and smaller pieces for the traverse. There is a bolt anchor at the top.
Fun route. Nuts and large cams (Camalot #3) down low in the crack. Small cams (Camalot .3-.4) in the seam to protect the final face climb. Solid anchors. Jun 29, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
The climb may also start from the West side up some rather dank and mossy cracks for 10 or 15 meters. This involves a 5.8 move to stand up, then 5.6 from there. You climb up to get on the better and cleaner rock where the formation starts looking like a pin & where the route officially begins. This beginning may require some judgment and skill to protect and climb safely. Despite its 5.7 rating it is probably not the best lead for a beginner.
The top has room for 2 "Au Cheval." Jul 30, 2006
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
  5.7 PG13
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
  5.7 PG13
This was my first trad lead! Great to be out in early March...already my 6th needles climbing day of the year. I slung the first flake and ran it out to the top, would have felt more comfortable had I put at least one nut before the final arete. I placed a small nut, a #3 and #4 cam in the crack and single length runner on the first flake. Mar 5, 2007
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
Climbed the Tent Peg, but started on the opposite (North) side in a wide crack that faces the Hairy Pin. Climbed up, then traversed around to the left to join the same final runout to the top. Fun climb, with terrific exposure heading to the top, and a super small summit. Jul 28, 2009
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I started on the East side, between the two spires super pin & tent peg. A narley crack with 2 small trees leads up to the better second half. Then up to the beautiful finish. I used cams 1-4 and nuts. Two bolt anchor. May 25, 2010