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Routes in Reunion Rock

Loss of Sensation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trojan Determination S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
impuissant (impotent) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,229 total · 6/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 21, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Follow a bolted route on the right side of Reunion Rock. The belayer will most likely be standing on pavement. This is a very well protected route, one of the few of its kind in the park. When I did it, one of the first few hangers was severely bent. One rope should do the trick for the descent.

This route is given 5.10 in the guidebooks, but feels more like 5.9. Some people even think that it is easier than Trojan Determination (the old 5.8 route just to the left).

Protection

several bolts, fixed anchors

Photos

I'm pretty sure this is the route commonly called Trojan Condemnation.There has been contreversy about this route possibly being rap bolted or done on hooks. Some of the bolts do not seem to be at natural stances and are wierd to clip (in my opinion).

Mar 9, 2003
Try the route to the left of Trojan Determination. Its a very clean, straight line with five or six bolts in the 5.10 b/c range depending upon how much you have to wander to find holds.

I met a climber from Canada just coming down from the route who said it was called 'Impuissance' ('Impotence' for those of us who don't speak/read French). Aug 20, 2003
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
Looks like cake walk. Actually quite harder than it looks with a few thinker spots. Mainly your just fighting the pump in the crux(es) because of the small holds and looking around for the next. Mar 17, 2016

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