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Apr 7, 2026
Engaging, as the French would say. That Topher pieced this less-than-obvious King line together is evidence… View Comment
Dec 14, 2025
If the finger locks are painful, I can only imagine what the toe jams feel like barefoot! Proud. View Comment
Feb 7, 2025
I'm assuming Sharp and Hare didn't have ballnuts when they led this, as it was 1980. The thought of leading… View Comment
Jun 2, 2024
Yo Steve! Yes, it skips the Englishman's Home crux and does the second pitch of Athlete's. All the gear is… View Comment
May 13, 2024
The finishing hold of the crux broke off recently. The four finger, one pad edge that you reach to from the… View Comment
Feb 26, 2024
Excellent climbing and, well, hard for the grade. It felt harder than most of the 5.12a's in the canyon. Co… View Comment
Jul 12, 2023
Steve, good eye! My right foot kept getting caught by the rope due to the direction of the last piece. I wa… View Comment
Jun 11, 2023
This is certainly one of the best routes of the grade in the Front Range. High quality, fun climbing that k… View Comment
Dec 17, 2022
It is with great sadness that I discovered there is a relatively easy way to climb the arete directly. I ha… View Comment
Oct 30, 2021
Proud. View Comment
Sep 26, 2021
Stout and unique climbing through the crux. Very atypical for Eldo. View Comment
Aug 23, 2021
Don't worry, I placed a nest of bomber gear for him in the corner. View Comment
Aug 22, 2021
Fantastic job! Are you selling them? View Comment
Aug 22, 2021
Well hard for the grade. My guess is that this almost never gets onsighted. If it has been onsighted, my mo… View Comment
Jul 21, 2021
Kaz - that info will kill your onsight! Just go for it. It’ll be in good condition in the morning in the sh… View Comment
Apr 3, 2021
The pin before the bolt on pitch 1 is long gone. It makes for some fun, runout climbing getting to the bolt. View Comment
Mar 28, 2021
"The government GIVING property to an individual so that the can deny access to the general public is the o… View Comment
Mar 7, 2021
Maybe the best pitch of real slab climbing in Eldo? It felt about the same difficulty, though more sustaine… View Comment
Feb 21, 2021
Good effort, Brenton! The new blood in Eldo is bringing good things. I appreciate the sandbagged rating mos… View Comment
Jan 24, 2021
Easier than Pansee Sauvage (soft 11b) and slightly harder than the third pitch of Jules Verne (10d). View Comment
Dec 27, 2020
Steve, that makes me so happy! Thanks for the history. Is that the same deal with Raccoon Soup/Thunderbolt… View Comment
Dec 26, 2020
I have climbed in Eldo for 20 years to only find out now that the other name for this route is the best nam… View Comment
Nov 2, 2020
I love that comment, Steve, and I love you, hermano! I don't have it wired at all and hadn't led it in 20 y… View Comment
Nov 1, 2020
Beautiful slab climbing but soft for the grade. View Comment
Sep 13, 2020
Piana's direct finish is a fantastic end to the hard climbing. While it might have been R when Piana led it… View Comment
Aug 22, 2020
The flake being ripped off the upper runout just made it so much better! What a cool sequence. View Comment
Jul 29, 2020
The second pitch roof is no harder with the missing chockstone, just a bit more exciting. View Comment
Jun 14, 2020
The flake is still there at the first overhang, and it is a f*&%ing death time bomb. I could easily move it… View Comment
Mar 17, 2020
Certainly one of the best sport routes in Eldo. Scott Bennett's comments above are a sandbag though! I love… View Comment
Jan 12, 2020
No longer R with the new bolts. Very PG-13. Excellent pitch. View Comment
Nov 5, 2019
Has anyone climbed this since the big hold broke off at the crux, where the obvious rock scar is? View Comment
Sep 13, 2019
I did this recently and the slab at the start of the second pitch is the same as how it's always been. No h… View Comment
Feb 14, 2019
I did it recently, and the crimp is the same as it has been for the last 20 years. View Comment
Aug 26, 2018
Instant classic! 5.11+ sport to 5.12 finger crack. Hard for 12a in Eldo. View Comment
Jul 27, 2018
Lucien Devorros, your comments shows a very limited, white-centric understanding of Native American tribes… View Comment
Aug 27, 2017
Jon, I would assume Bob did it ground-up without too much fuss. When he did the FA in 1987, he was arguably… View Comment
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