Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,052 total · 21/month
Shared By: Adam Brink on Mar 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

57 Opinions

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It seems that either you love this problem or you hate it. Some people swoon over the overhanging crimpy moves, and some say it's the reason to hate Flagstaff. I personally fall in with the swooning crowd.

With hard body tension moves on small crimps, this is my favorite line on the upper ridge. Start on holds at about four feet high and make a long right hand reach to a sharp as hell crimp. Pull with all your might and go straight up through two side pull crimps to a jug at the lip. Does it get any better?


A bouldering pad is nice though not necessary.


Last week the top sidepull (right hand; last hold before the jugs) snapped off on me.

It looked like there was still a hold there, but I imagine things have gotten a bit more difficult. Haven't tried it yet to find out, since I'm still bruised up from the fall. (No spotter = wakup call for me! I'm very lucky it was only bruises....) Apr 13, 2003
Just did this problem today and there seems to be no change in difficulty. The side-pull mentioned is more of an intermediate hold and can be skipped altogether if you're strong. I've been doing this problem for twenty years and haven't noticed a change in difficulty (it used to be called B-1 minus--one of the easier B-1s on Flagstaff). Now if the first crimper or the next (left) side-pull ever breaks off.....that'll really change things. Apr 16, 2003
In agreeance with the reletively easy movement for the grade on this fine piece of stone, I urge all "Boulderers" that take the easy exit off to the right to suck it up and go straight through the upper bulge, or better yet connect to King Conquer! The combination of physical and mental challenge make this problem exemplary for the grade. May 7, 2003
I took your suggestion Cassidy and went up and pulled over the bulge. It changed my life!!! Aug 18, 2004
Such a rad problem! I haven't stuck the throw to the jug yet, but it's going down today... Sep 3, 2005
Easiest V5 I've ever tried....second try.... Assuming I used the right sequence..... Start on two crimps, right hand up to thin crimp, left hand to sidepull, big move to jug and topout? That sound right? Oct 20, 2006
bhoran Horan
Boulder, CO
bhoran Horan   Boulder, CO
Flagstaff Classic.
youtu.be/x78L-B4FpoI Feb 10, 2011
Kris S
Gunbarrel, CO
Kris S   Gunbarrel, CO
Bob, your video is gone :( Jan 31, 2018