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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Bell Buttress is a towering, mostly North-facing wall opposite of Practice Rock. Many old and classic routes can be found here but not too many easy routes. The famous route Cosmosis should not be missed, and if you're a trad hardman (or woman), there are some testpieces on this wall, some with a great deal of controversy surrounding them....

With its north-facing exposure, the wall stays in the shade until early afternoon. so summer outings are cool, but on winter days you're probably better off with another wall.

A. Bell Air, 11, 2p, 190', bolts & gear.
B. The Pitts, 11, 2p, 220', bolts & gear.
B1. Unknown, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
B2. Unknown Crack, 10-, 1p, gear.
B3. North Face, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
C. The Bypass 8 A4, 1p.
D. Freak on a Leash, 12+, 1p, bolts.
E. Hound Dog, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
F. Grand Inquisitor, 12 R, 1p?, gear & bolts.
G. The Purpose, 12, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
H. Gates of Eden, 10-, 2-3p, gear.
I. Double Jeopardy, 9, 2-3p, gear.
J. Bell Buster, 11-, 1p, bolts.
K. The Spoils, 12, 1p, 70', gear.
KM1. The Spoiled Moose, 13- R, 1p, gear.
L. Verve, 13, 1p, bolts.
M. Swerve 12, R/X, 1p, gear & bolt.
M1. Cosmosis, 9+, 3p, gear.
M2? The Route That Dan Missed, 10 R/X, 1p, gear.
N. Beethoven's Fifth, 12+ R, 1p, 80', gear.
O. Unfinished Symphony, 11, 1p, gear.
P. West Crack, 9+, 1p, gear.
Q. West Face, 9, 2p, gear.
R. Arete, 12, 1p?, bolts?
S. Little Man And The Boat, 12- R, 1p?, gear?
T. Epiphany Direct, 12, 1p, gear & bolt.
U. Epiphany, 11+ R, 1p, 100', gear & bolt.
U1. Saved by the Bell, 11, 1p, gear.
V. Arms Bazaar, 12-, 1p, gear.
W. Three Minute Hero, 11 R/X, 1p, 66', gear.
X. Joe Pontiac, 7 or 9?, 1-2p, gear.
Y. Malaise, 10, 1p, gear.
Z. Daedalus, 10 R, 1p, gear.
AA. Wrinkles, 9, 3p, gear.
AA1. Christmas In LA, 7, 2nd var 50' R of Z 2nd p, gear.
BB. Wayward Puritan, 6, 2p, gear.
CC. Five-Ten Route, 10-, 1p, gear.
DD. Front Line, 11 PG-13, 1p, 105', gear.
EE. Frontier, 11 R, 1p, 105', gear.
FF. Tiers, 7, 1p, 60', gear.

Getting There

Drive West on Canyon from Boulder and set your odometer at the bridge just east of the Dome. Drive 8.1mi up the canyon and a little ways beyond Boulder Falls, look for Practice Rock on the north side of the road with a gravel pullout. Park here then head across the creek on the south side of the road via a tree bridge.

To access the routes, hike downstream to the east end of the wall then scramble up an easy ramp to the base of the routes. Descent from the top is via a gully on the west side of the wall.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 110
West Face
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 87
West Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 228
Cosmosis
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Gates of Eden
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 81
Hound Dog
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Saved by the Bell
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 8
Epiphany
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 37
Arms Bazaar
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 18
Grand Inquisitor
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
The Spoils
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 8
The Purpose
Trad, Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
 20
Beethoven's Fifth
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 7
Freak on a Leash
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 9
Verve
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face
 110
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
West Crack
 87
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Cosmosis
 228
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Gates of Eden
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hound Dog
 81
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Saved by the Bell
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Epiphany
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad
Arms Bazaar
 37
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Grand Inquisitor
 18
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
The Spoils
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
The Purpose
 8
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Beethoven's Fifth
 20
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Freak on a Leash
 7
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times o…
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Verve
 9
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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