Bell Buttress - Main Crag Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.001, -105.413 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Bell Buttress is a towering, mostly North-facing wall opposite of Practice Rock. Many old and classic routes can be found here but not too many easy routes. The famous route Cosmosis should not be missed, and if you're a trad hardman (or woman), there are some testpieces on this wall, some with a great deal of controversy surrounding them....
With its north-facing exposure, the wall stays in the shade until early afternoon. so summer outings are cool, but on winter days you're probably better off with another wall.
A. Bell Air, 11, 2p, 190', bolts & gear.
B. The Pitts, 11, 2p, 220', bolts & gear.
B1. Unknown, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
B2. Unknown Crack, 10-, 1p, gear.
B3. North Face, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
C. The Bypass 8 A4, 1p.
D. Freak on a Leash, 12+, 1p, bolts.
E. Hound Dog, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
F. Grand Inquisitor, 12 R, 1p?, gear & bolts.
G. The Purpose, 12, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
H. Gates of Eden, 10-, 2-3p, gear.
I. Double Jeopardy, 9, 2-3p, gear.
J. Bell Buster, 11-, 1p, bolts.
K. The Spoils, 12, 1p, 70', gear.
KM1. The Spoiled Moose, 13- R, 1p, gear.
L. Verve, 13, 1p, bolts.
M. Swerve 12, R/X, 1p, gear & bolt.
M1. Cosmosis, 9+, 3p, gear.
M2? The Route That Dan Missed, 10 R/X, 1p, gear.
N. Beethoven's Fifth, 12+ R, 1p, 80', gear.
O. Unfinished Symphony, 11, 1p, gear.
P. West Crack, 9+, 1p, gear.
Q. West Face, 9, 2p, gear.
R. Mystery Arete, 12 PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
S. Little Man And The Boat, 12- R, 1p?, gear?
T. Saved by the Bell, 11, 1p, gear.
U.Epiphany Direct, 12, 1p, gear & bolt.
U1. Epiphany, 11+ R, 1p, 100', gear & bolt.
V. Arms Bazaar, 12-, 1p, gear.
W. Three Minute Hero, 11 R/X, 1p, 66', gear.
X. Joe Pontiac, 7 or 9?, 1-2p, gear.
Y. Minos Right, 8, 1p, 100', gear.
Z. Malaise, 10, 1p, gear.
AA. Daedalus, 10 R, 1p, gear.
BB. Wrinkles, 9, 3p, gear.
CC1. Christmas In LA, 7, 2nd var 50' R of Z 2nd p, gear.
CC2. Wayward Puritan, 6, 2p, gear.
DD. Five-Ten Route, 10-, 1p, gear.
EE. Front Line, 11 PG-13, 1p, 105', gear.
FF. Frontier, 11 R, 1p, 105', gear.
GG. Tiers, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
To access the routes, hike downstream to the east end of the wall then scramble up an easy ramp to the base of the routes. Descent from the top is via a gully on the west side of the wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Days w Precip