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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ted Rouillard, Cleve McCarty, 1956. FFA: Ament, Stults, Rutwitch, 1967
Page Views: 29,724 total, 145/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a Boulder Canyon classic testpiece hat once held the title of hardest crack climb in the US. Overall solid jamming with good feet, but slippery in places.

The first pitch has the crux right off the ground and involves delicate face climbing and mantling past two bolts. Finish this pitch by climbing the awkward 5.9 crack to a good belay ledge with a bolt anchor.

The second pitch is the endurance crux and is really where the classic hand crack climbing is at. Progressively harder crack climbing leads through a small roof. Hold on because the crux is still to come. A nice but tricky rest sets you up for the thin finger crack crux which involves thin and insecure finger jamming (11a) up a smooth face for 15 feet before a nice jug traverse to the anchors.

Protection

This route can be well protected with a standard rack. There are many fixed pins on this route helping to minimize the need to place many nuts. Bring cams sized in the finger to hand crack sizes - doubling these if you like to place lots of gear. A #3 Camalot helps as you pull the roof, and a #2 Camalot is useful in multiple places. A 3 bolt rappel anchor gets you to the ground (70 meter will get you back to the pitch one anchors).
Tim Hare
Boulder
Tim Hare   Boulder
Was up here on Thursday and again today, and there is a rope fixed. If this is yours, please retrieve it.

NOW, some fixed line etiquette - on Thursday, part of the line was hanging (appeared to be fixed) from the top anchor, and the latter half was fixed on the lower anchor. I hiked around and threw my line off the top to run a toprope solo. The apparently "fixed" rope was held by a stopper knot which would have easily passed through the rings if someone weighted it from below. I was shocked and slipped that part of the line through, tossing it to the ground. So, the rope is still fixed at the bottom anchor, and I coiled the remainder behind the boulder at the bottom. For whoever's rope this is, please know that leaving a rope in such a precarious state is a big and dangerous disservice. While it's questionable to leave a rope hanging by the road in BoCan at all, leaving a rope fixed to the top of such a popular climb with nothing but a stopper knot is just unfair to the climbing community. Ropes that appear fixed should be fixed, period. Maybe it was late, maybe it was dark and you forgot to untie the stopper not. I don't know, but then please get back up there and clean up after yourself. I was there again today, Sunday, and the rope is still there, still fixed on the lower anchor, waiting for a retrieval.

The climb is still as beautiful as ever! Oct 8, 2017
Buster Jesik: "It seems that the bottom bolt has been chopped?"

Nope. Still there. There is a mess of old holes, presumably from bolt wars years ago. Maybe that's what you saw? May 31, 2017
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
It seems that the bottom bolt has been chopped? May 24, 2017
Harrison Dreves
Denver, Colorado
  5.11c
Harrison Dreves   Denver, Colorado
  5.11c
I didn't climb this route before the blocks fell out of the roof, but on my first climb of this, I felt that the roof on pitch two was almost as hard as the crux on pitch one (granted, in a very different style).

I'd suggest 11b for the roof moves on pitch 2 now.

If you're not comfortable pulling those moves with a #0.3 Camalot below your feet (assuming you extend it from its placement at the back of the roof), you would probably need to bring a #5 Camalot to protect the roof pod now. Sep 22, 2016
Indeed, the chockstone under the roof is no more. This deserves a mention on such a historical and classic line.

While not a huge deal, my guess is that people will find pulling the roof a touch harder now. Sep 17, 2016
The blocks under the roof are gone now . Apparently they were suddenly quite loose, and someone cleaned them out a few weeks ago.

The blocks provided a few jugs that made getting around the roof pretty straightforward. I wouldn't say it's harder now, but it is a little less straightforward. For what it's worth, I'm 6'5" and could see how it might be harder for short people now.

The resulting pod under the roof is a little tricky to protect. There is a pinch that would take a #0.75 Camalot (or probably better, a black Metolius), but if it walks at all, it will be useless quickly. I found a good yellow Alien on the right side of the dihedral, under the roof, in the crack that heads right to become Nobody's Home. Jul 16, 2016
Here's to hoping...was anyone able to wiggle a #1 BD cam halfway up the second pitch of Country Club? We tried as best we could but got weathered and left it there. Date was May 27th (last week) in the late afternoon. Looks like someone grabbed it when we went back to work it out. Would LOVE it if someone did. 6 pack for reward?! :) Jun 1, 2015
EricR
Nederland
EricR   Nederland
Found a pair of fancy car keys at the base of Country Club today. Give a shout if they are yours. Nov 2, 2014
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Best crack I've been on in the radbro. I, for one, liked the opening move.... But the jams are where it's at. So comfy. Great link and lowers to the ground with an 80. Sep 11, 2014
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
My 60m makes it down to the first AF anchor with none to spare. Tie knots. Oct 6, 2011
noah gostout
Iqaluit, Nunavut
noah gostout   Iqaluit, Nunavut
Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night, I went back to get it but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com Aug 9, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Good climb to practice aid on days like today. There were only a few teams of people waiting to free CCC in the foot of snow while I struggled up it. Plus, your belayer can stay toasty in the car. Feb 8, 2010
I can't wait to do this line...Luke H. Let's hook this line up!!!! Sep 3, 2009
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
  5.11c
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
  5.11c
Nice climb, but it looks like a junkyard with ~20 bolt studs and ~12 pins. Jul 30, 2008
SAL
broomdigiddy
 
SAL   broomdigiddy
 
A 60m will make it in one pitch as well. Just leaves you a bit short on the raps. A 70 would be ideal cause then you can rap to the first pitch anchors of A.F.
pump fest in one long one for sure.

Edit***
We climbed this again yesterday with one 70m.
Rappelling from the top of P.2 the knots in our rope were only about 8 ft down and to the right of the anchors top of P1 for athletes feet.
I advise a 70 or 2-60s to avoid any big swings.

FYI- There is now a fixed red TCU top of the 2nd pitch crux. It walked to far back and over cammed too much to get out. It's in a great spot though just before the thank god jug. Clip it and keep moving. :) :) May 6, 2008
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
 
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
 
A 70m rope makes it in one pitch with about 25ft of rope left. Doing it in one pitch I used my whole rack, which was triples of everything Camalot 0.5 - 3 and a few smaller cams. Amazing pitch! May 5, 2008
KeithRD  
I know a lot of people would frown on this but, this climb is a great place to practice aid climbing (clean of course), along with the aid roof a little farther west on Castle Rock. If you're rusty and headed for a big wall or trying to learn, taking laps on this is great fun.

Side note: Try to climb this when it is not conducive to free climbing, i.e. cold, night, early am, winter or the like. Be mindful, if aid climbing, that this is a very popular and quality free line and chocking it up for hours aiding would be less than polite. Sep 20, 2007
taimi
Longmont, CO
 
taimi   Longmont, CO
 
My ONLY complaint with this route is that the first (and only) bolt is in such an awkward position--ok, maybe not so awkward if you're 5'7" or more, but let me tell you, when you're 5'4", it's a SCARY first bolt... Otherwise, ditto on all raves above. Sep 17, 2007
Can be done in one pitch and what a great pitch, but it leaves the second in a scary situation for the opening face moves due to rope stretch. And nobody should miss out on that awesome face climbing. Jun 27, 2007
Ian
Boulder, CO
Ian   Boulder, CO
A 60m rope will not reach the anchor on P1 of Athlete's Feat! I was about 5 feet short, dangling in the air. I could not find a placement for the #4 even though I brought it. I had a #3 above the roof, but one or two #2s would have been enough. Sep 6, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Primo booty. Oct 21, 2004
arod
Denver , CO
  5.11b
arod   Denver , CO
  5.11b
Got on CCC the other day (Oct 17) and found two cams (#1 & #2) in the crack, climbers left of the second pitch just above the picth one belay. I think someone was using them as directionals for the second but I am not sure. Contact me if you are the owner at arod825@hotmail.com. Oct 21, 2004
I think the first bolt holds the crux. The next move felt much easier for me. That added bolt was ridiculous!

The middle part of this climb is some of the best moderate, crack climbing in the canyon! May 27, 2003
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
 
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
 
Someone added a new bolt between the second bolt and the crack. This bolt was not needed for a safe free or aid ascent. We promptly removed the bolt and the hanger. It is a self drilling bolt and the sleeve is still in the rock. If any one knows how to remove the sleeve WITHOUT damaging the rock further, email me or someone to do so. Epoxy and a little rock dust should minimize what is already a swiss cheese rock. May 27, 2003
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
I found the only real rest on the second pitch came after the roof, where I was able to slide my whole right leg into the wide crack, flexed and torqued until solid and I was able to hang quite comfortably sans meathooks (what my arms felt like after the roof). I wouldn't call it a "knee lock", more of an off width jam. I got it all back but it didn't really matter a hoot, the last 15' still kicked my ass. Sep 29, 2002
TBD
TBD  
It too finally got on this climb this weekend. All I can say is "tough climb" and that I will be sore for days. I agree with that above comments that you can do without the #4, no reason to lug that thing up there. I'm hoping to figure out some sort of rest in the section of wide crack just past the roof (knee lock???), otherwise I have know idea how I could do it continuously, way to pumped for the thin fingers, difficult feet section (the real crux of the route to me). Sep 29, 2002
After 3 or 4 trips up to Castle Rock in the last year, I was finally able to get on this route... no aid climbers this morning! The face climbing at the start is desperate, though possibly slightly easier than the Athlete's Feet mantle... I'm not sure how shorter people are able to do the move past the 2nd bolt. The crack pitch is pumpy, though look for a tricky no-hands rest on the upper part. From the anchors at the top you can TR the excellent Englishman's Home (11c- very thin looking gear) which takes the Athlete's Feet start straight up through a series of lieback corners to the flake system left of CCC, joining that route at the roof. Aug 20, 2002
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
 
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
 
I found that the best way to protect the second is to clip a 0.75 cam up and left of the belay or a red/yellow Alien just left of the belay to minimize the pendulum (the traversing face moves at the end are the scariest moves on the whole climb). You don't need anything larger than a #3 cam although there are places to put big pieces. Not many nut placements, but there are a few that are completely bomber. There are also a few hex placements that are definitely more bomber than the cams that would go in their place. When I do it as one pitch: set of stoppers, few hexes, 2 x red Aliens, 2 x yellow Aliens, 2 x (#0.75, 1, 2, 3) Camalots, plenty of draws for the pins/nuts/hexes, and a double length to equalize the bolts with a runner to reduce drag. This is a good training route as most of the falls are safe (except the start - safe at A0) and (if you are proficient at placing good pro) all the gear is bomber. Aug 19, 2002
What a fun/scary lead. Scary - because I lack ability, strength, etc. Fun - because the route takes pro so well.

The original comment on the route says to take a #4 Camalot. Somone else said you only need a #2 and smaller. I found a #3 Camalot protected the roof, and then right after you move left from the roof, and #2 Camalot helped calm my mind. As the crack gets thin, the green, yellow, and red Alien were perfect. Better leaders probably wouldn't see the need to place all three pieces throughout this thin section. Once you get to the top of the crack, the route moves right. Before moving up and right, I placed a #1 Camalot as a passive piece to protect the second from a pendulum after he cleaned the Aliens at the fingers crux.

Hopefully, this will help others in deciding what pro to take. Aug 19, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
I found it more enjoyable to climb as one pitch, however, it's easier for the second to impale their backside on a fall from the opening moves due to the rope stretch. The thin section at the top is much easier without tape. Jul 10, 2002
Bill Wright was kind enough to drag me up this route this morning. What an absolute classic.

Really enjoyable, both from a climbing perspective and from a historical perspective. It is not everyday that you can climb a route mentioned in both Pat Ament and Royal Robbins' biography.

The 5.11 finger/off hand crack (crux second pitch) is a humbling experience... It is unbelievable Derek Hersey soloed this... I died three times before I reached the saving jug...

What a great morning... WT Jul 1, 2002
I love this route. I've done it nine times and still no redpoint of the upper pitch. Only once have I had another party on the route at the same time. If you want this route to yourself get on it early on a weekday morning. Of the nine times I've done this route, six of them were before work. This is the time to climb it anyway since you want the first pitch cool and in the shade.

Others should definitely share the rock, but I think topropers and (clean) aid climbers have a right to climb this route as well. Heck, the Salathe Wall on El Cap is a free climb. Should all aid climbers be barred from climbing it? Common courtesy should be exercised by all involved. Maybe the aid climbers can offer to let the free climbers by after the first pitch? Jun 17, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
RE/raps: a 60m will get you to the bolt anchor atop P1, and the leader can even lower down and belay the second from here, if desired (this will require exciting swinging shenanigans for both the leader and the follower). Aug 4, 2001
A few thoughts. 1) You can get by with, at most, one #2 Camalot and nothing larger. I find this route protects well with plenty of Camalots between 0.5 and #1, some screamers for the pins and a few (very few) nuts and aliens.

2) Share the rock! I've seen many people tie up the route for half a day or more while pracicing aid. If must practice aid here, try going on off hours.

3) You can rap the route with one rope by swinging over to the anchors atop the second pitch of Athlete's feet.

Tom Isaacson Jul 31, 2001
Easy, there - Mr. A.C.! Personally, I enjoy SL's comments - his sense of history adds a hell of a lot of value and interesting reading to this site. Our local climbing history is incredibly interesting and invaluable and needs to be passed along to the next generation. Keep up the good work, Steve - you are a definite asset (and I have commenced my search for Roger's graffiti in Eldo - excellent bit of trivia you mentioned previously...). May 25, 2001