Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ted Rouillard, Cleve McCarty, 1956. FFA: Ament, Stults, Rutwitch, 1967
Page Views: 34,351 total · 151/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a Boulder Canyon classic testpiece hat once held the title of hardest crack climb in the US. Overall solid jamming with good feet, but slippery in places.

The first pitch has the crux right off the ground and involves delicate face climbing and mantling past two bolts. Finish this pitch by climbing the awkward 5.9 crack to a good belay ledge with a bolt anchor.

The second pitch is the endurance crux and is really where the classic hand crack climbing is at. Progressively harder crack climbing leads through a small roof. Hold on because the crux is still to come. A nice but tricky rest sets you up for the thin finger crack crux which involves thin and insecure finger jamming (11a) up a smooth face for 15 feet before a nice jug traverse to the anchors.

Protection

This route can be well protected with a standard rack. There are many fixed pins on this route helping to minimize the need to place many nuts. Bring cams sized in the finger to hand crack sizes - doubling these if you like to place lots of gear. A #3 Camalot helps as you pull the roof, and a #2 Camalot is useful in multiple places. A 3 bolt rappel anchor gets you to the ground (70 meter will get you back to the pitch one anchors).

Photos