Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Daniel Woods
Page Views: 3,132 total · 18/month
Shared By: Steve Woods on May 25, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Upstream from Castle Rock, cross the log jam, head up hill then bear right along the cliff band, maybe 50 yards, then head back towards the creek a bit. The problem starts under the egg shaped boulder. Pull over the lip, mantle and top out.

Protection

A couple of pads.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
There is a nice video of Ryan Olson climbing Hardboiled at:

boulderingmedia.com/videos/… May 9, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Yes albeit with Olsonian heelhook beta going to the crimp below the lip on the left May 9, 2008
Got on this one today. It was a lot of fun. I could not figure the beta to get my body over the lip yet. Seems there may be a few good ways to do this one, but I just could never make total since of the moves to get one's self mounted up on the up part of the wall!!? Just day one though.... hopefully a few more visits and I will send.

F.Y.I. I a decent place to cross to river that is close to the problem. It's a log jam that was ok to cross and made access much easier. But as usual be careful if you walk the logs as I did... you could take a spill of even get hurt!!! Jun 12, 2009
I heard that the start of this problem has broken? As in... it fell apart?!? I seem to remember the starting holds being quite solid but since I've not been back to confirm this Intel - I was wondering if anyone else has heard about or can confirm the broken starting hold(s) information. Thanks Aug 22, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I wonder which sidepull you are talking about. Most ascents go RH to the lip. I easily pulled off the original LH hold leaving a very solid small LH edge/undercling. I'm surprised to hear that might be flexing and wonder if it is actually the same one. Sep 27, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Start matched on the low fin, RH to a pinchy crimp on the obvious little block, punch left to a small incut edge, RH to the obvious edge just over the lip, reach LH to a bad sloping, pockety edge, move right to the horizontal crimps, match, left foot over, reach for the sidepull LH and stand up. Oct 2, 2009
Cesar Valencia
  V10+
Cesar Valencia  
  V10+
Sweet line. I did this one in February of 2017. No kneebar for me, so it felt about V10. Some people say V9 with the kneebar. Do it how you want, it's fun either way.

Beta video: youtu.be/RUW0xKNELaY Mar 29, 2018