Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Dan Hare and Mark Venery
Page Views: 3,138 total, 15/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A bold lead if you're feeling strong! Also a great toprope, this climb mixes sequential face climbing with a few burly crack moves. There are some sketchy moves below the first bolt that can be protected by RPs (check it out on TR first if you're not sure about the placements), but the rest of the climb is fairly well protected.

Climb the face past 2 bolts then head up and right to the undercling crack. Traverse this up and left and prepare for the big final move! A good TR or a bold lead- either way it's a fun climb. A toprope can be set up by climbing the first pitch of Tongo to the left.

Protection

Bring some RPs to protect the bottom 20 feet before the first bolt, a couple of 'draws for the 2 bolts, and some small cams for the upper crack. There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
Start has a good nut about 8 feet up then nothing to the first bolt. The low nut would be useless when you're making the 10ish moves to the bolt, you would be soloing (the apparent rail 20 ft up has no pro). I extended the first bolt with draws, and then it's reasonable to lead and a super fun route. What a gem! The upper crux pulls fine without gear after the bomber corner gear - spicy but a clean fall. Personally, I would way rather have the first bolt 8 ft. lower to avoid the decker. It doesn't need more bolts, but it's too bad they were kinda poorly placed, IMHO. Really a great line though! May 30, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
4 star movement and rock quality, if only a little short. 3 stars overall. Spectacular face climbing. This is intimidating to onsight but easy to redpoint after working out the moves and gear. Do not try to overprotect by placing gear in the jug slots. Instead, gun it for the horizontal crack and place a #6 BD stopper and a purple Metolius/blue Alien equivalent. The runout start is on fairly moderate climbing compared to the crux. Blowing at the crux could result in an unpleasant swing to the right. Sep 2, 2015
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
I took the fall just before the first bolt after probably 30+ ascents on lead. It's actually not all that bad of a fall with a soft landing...no more bolts please. Bring a crash pad if youÂ’re worried. Apr 22, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement. Jul 7, 2013
This route is definitely R rated if starting from the left ramp as opposed to directly beneath the first bolt. If starting along the ramp, be prepared for a dicey unprotected move. Cool route. Jun 23, 2012
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c PG13
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
  5.11b/c PG13
Fine route with sketchy start. Looked like there was a place for tiny nut, but I would have doubts falling on it. The move from which you can hit the ground is only about 5.9, so I don't know how appropriate R rating would be in context of the whole route. A yellow C3 perfectly protects traverse left at the top, so you don't have to swing into the corner if you blow it. Sep 6, 2011
Dan and I climbed this route a year or so before his transition to rap bolting sport routes. This route, in my mind, represents the vision and commitment Dan held as a climber. Not only was it a bold lead, he found this line on one of the more popular crags in the canyon. That is his gift - finding great lines.

I am glad to see others here defending this route in its original form. It would be a bummer to see bolts added to this route. Right after Dan and I climbed this route, a Spanish guy who was traveling through the area nailed the 2nd ascent and confirmed the rating. Apr 8, 2011
ChanVan Schaack
  5.11c PG13
ChanVan Schaack  
  5.11c PG13
This is a great route- techy, pumpy, and a bit spicy. The PG-13 refers to the start, which is probably 10+. There is an obvious, bomber, small cam to protect the move up to the rail, then a #1 Peanut to protect the move to the jug. The rest of the gear is bomber but pumpy to place for sure. I called this 11c only, because IMHO it is much easier than Englishman's...might also be easier than CCC for many. In any case, awesome route that the competent 5.11 leader should not shy away from. Sep 20, 2010
adam brink
Boulder, CO
 
adam brink   Boulder, CO
 
My buddy, Steve Annecone, figured out how to get two good pieces (a yellow/green offset Alien and an RP) before the first bolt. The gear makes for a pretty damn safe lead and should only be considered S, at the worst. May 5, 2008
adam brink
Boulder, CO
 
adam brink   Boulder, CO
 
This route definitely does not need any bolts added. It is perfect as it is! It is an exciting lead but has probably been led hundreds of times if not much more. Not every route has to be dumbed down with a bunch of bolts. Leave some routes for those who like a little adventure and challenge. Oct 29, 2007
Please don't add bolts to this route. Thank you. Oct 29, 2007
adam brink
Boulder, CO
 
adam brink   Boulder, CO
 
I couldn't find any gear worth putting in before the first bolt. It's not much of an issue as the climbing up to that point is fairly easy. This is an excellent and pumpy lead, well worth doing. I don't know if I would say it's as hard as 11d though. Feb 25, 2002
I thought it was a good route. I don't remember any rp's to protect the start, though. After clipping the first bolt the gear remains good. Crux is pullin' on a crimper... way more straightforward, and basically easier, than the start of Country Club, the start of Athlete's Feat, and the beginning, slabby moves of Never a Dull Moment, all of which are rated one or two letter grades easier. Duncan Burke Nov 10, 2001