Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Brian Capps for the stand. Chris Schulte sit start
Page Views: 3,259 total · 24/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 14, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The stand start is called Cage Free, V11. On the left-center of the Citadel Boulder's south face is a good sidepull. Use this to reach left to a bad sidepull and jump to the top with the right hand.

The sit start is called Free Range, V13. The sit start goes with a left hand on a pretty good pinch and a right on a variety of low holds. The low left spike is on for your feet. Bump right to an edge, cross to a pinch and traverse into Cage Free.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMalzKx8UOU.

youtube.com/watch?v=dSI6xvv….

Location

The Citadel Boulder is the obvious boulder just downstream from Castle Rock on the north side of the creek.

Protection

A few pads are in order.

Photos

The start for free range is from a sloping left hand pinch, not the arete.... Apr 25, 2009
Luke Childers
  V13
Luke Childers  
  V13
Tried this one today as well as "Surface Tension." and got killed. The start was ok, but turning my body into "Cage Free" with zippo feet, while keeping your composure and busting out that huge toss was just madding.

A really cool problem. I think waiting for cooler temps and getting a stronger everything on my body before taking the completion of this seriously is going to be my deal. The tension is crazy!!! I felt stronger on "Midnight Express." Anyway, sick hook up to "Cage Free."

Can't wait to see the reverse send from "Surface Tension" into "Cage Free" go!!! That's gonna be nuts!! All good lines on this wall!! Wait for good temps and low water to play here man... for-sure.. Sep 3, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  V13
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  V13
I finally fixed the Free Range description, per Chris' comments. Sorry I haven't been climbing here much recently :) Oct 11, 2011