Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler
Page Views: 441 total · 31/month
Shared By: j wharton on Nov 14, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This seemingly neglected route seems to have been ignored for no good reason. It's actually quite good, not polished, and well-bolted. The grade is even fair on the YDS grading scale, not the typically merciless CRDS (Castle Rock Decimal System, which was first developed in Index). It deserves more traffic. I'd give it nearly four stars for BoCan, but the crux grip is a hint sharp.

Begin with some fun athletic climbing, culminating in a long move through a bulge. Traverse right to an awkward stance. Then do some tech climbing (go hard left at the 5th bolt), before gaining the South Face and a two bolt anchor.

It is in the shade after 2pm in the Fall. It's easy to toprope or hang draws from the second anchor on the South Face.

Location

Begin just right of The Gill Crack.

Protection

5 bolts. A 0.3 cam protects the 5.9 section at the top, when you join the South Face.

Stick clip the first bolt (small cams and/or crashpads would work if you don't want to stick clip).

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