Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Tyler Landman December 2007
Page Views: 9,782 total · 73/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 17, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Up the hill from the south face of Castle is a low outcropping/boulder with an obvious arete and flake. Start low on sharp sidepull with your right hand and a very low sidepull for your left. There have been ascents done starting with the big pinch just left of the right sidepull but the FA was done with the first method. Battle your way past several desperate moves up the flake to a perilous finish at the lip.

Certainly one of the most classic lines on the Front Range with easy access and a compelling line. Should have been picked off years ago but Ty came up with the goods.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUDMBVJW5q8

youtube.com/watch?v=ckhHXTA…

vimeo.com/20157184

Location

Look south uphill from the bridge below Country Club. Hidden a bit by trees.

Protection

A healthy number of pads and spotter.

Photos

Holly... MAN... this is the mother of all lines!! I loved this problem more than life!! Although I couldn't do the first two moves, which is the bizz, I was able to work out the rest of the problem to my total satisfaction!! The line is like gold!!!! The top-out is scary because of the death landing but the holds were good enough for me to relax and top-out. Just need to put that opening sequence together and I will never ask for any thing ever again.

I'm an addict of "Midnight Express" now!! The opening sequence could take me the rest of my life but this is my forever until sent project!! Just a great problem with moves that exist only in our dreams. It's a must do!! Aug 24, 2009
Worked on the bottom for a short while and got my butt off the ground... so that was exciting!! Now I've go to stick the chip like undercling and I will put this hog away. Still looking for the best solution for the opening moves on this sweetheart. I just love this line man!!! The top-out is still spooky though! Aug 25, 2009