Type: Sport
FA: Jerry Moffat
Page Views: 4,317 total · 20/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

I have not climbed this route. I have tried to climb this route. Dave Graham has flashed this route, according to 8a.nu. Climb the thin smooth corner left of Jackson's Wall, right of the Aid Roof. Do a hard boulder problem and then layback up the slickest dihedral at Castle to a no-holds stance below the anchor. Let go with a hand and clip it. Good Luck.

Protection

3 bolts/anchor.

Photos

It was my understanding that Pat Adams bolted this but considered it an open project and Jerry did it when he was here to climb Just Do it. Pat's generosity is commendable. I think Peter's honesty is also commendable. Aug 28, 2002
Slabio is arguable one of the best pitches in the country if not the world! Three stars for good position. Moffat rated it 14a. Tommy C. down rated it to 13c. The crux is probably six inches long. The crack leading up to the anchors is 12c/d. Aug 30, 2002
A couple months ago I watched Taylor Roy lead this route while placing gear. It was impressive. (I think he had previously red-pointed the route using the bolts). - Chad Aug 9, 2005
Luke Childers
  5.13c/d
Luke Childers  
  5.13c/d
I have tried this line and could do it with one hang, but I never went back to link it up. A fun line that I felt was 13c for sure. Aug 26, 2009
Brad G  
The crux on this route is so gnarly. It makes the Viceroy extension feel like a flight of stairs. I'd like to think a foot hold broke, but deep down I know that's not true. Jan 21, 2016