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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 3,225 total, 47/month
Shared By: Cedar Wright on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a variation to Country Club or for extra hard man proudness points... Englishman's Home. This is probably my favorite climb at Castle... what a CLASSIC! It's kind of like a harder version of The Wisdom in that you place your gear, and then punch it for longer than you want to! Topher called this the best whipper in Colorado! At the roof on the "second pitch", traverse right out the pumpy undercling, slam in a piece, and then punch it for dear life up and back left on a wild, sloping struggle of fear. Rejoin Country Club at the anchor and if you are a real bad ass... take the victory whip:)

Protection

Use the same as C.C. plus a couple purple juniors for the undercling.

Location

Climb up Country Club Crack and go right at the roof on P2.

Photos

Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
  5.12
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
  5.12
My buddy Adam Brink and I managed to send this on lead last weekend via Englishman's Home. More folks should go for it. The whip is great, and you can finagle a purple Master cam about 15 ft before the anchor cutting the runout a bit shorter. Sep 10, 2013
I was wondering when you succeeded in leading this, Topher. Very cool! Yes, that is correct: Domestic Abuse goes out the undercling and orangutans out right to the arete. On the FA in 1987 (100% from the bottom up, and yes, some good whippers cleaning lichen on the go...), I belayed at the arete.

As to Nobody's Home, thanks for keeping the name. Having toproped this many times, I kept thinking "This would be a good ABC Headpoint" - meaning an elementary or introductory level headpoint, in the sense that you can fall a long distance but are unlikely to get hurt.

Way to go!

Has anyone else led this since you? Good Spectator Value, to be sure! Oct 22, 2012
Thanks for the explanation, Topher! It sounds like an awesome addition! Kudos on the heady lead! May 1, 2012
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.12
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.12
Regardless of who did it first or what it is called, it is a very cool and hard finish to either CCC or Englishman's Home. Good job on the lead, Topher! May 1, 2012
Only 30 feet of new terrain, Chris, but it's a wild 30! I talked to Eric Doub (the name Nobody's Home was suggested by Eric, in fact) a while ago about it, and he said Domestic Abuse traverses the roof all the way out to the arete before going up on easier terrain to the Country Club anchor. Nobody's Home goes about halfway out the roof before going straight up to the Country Club anchor.

I know the Nobody's Home headwall has been toproped for years by going out to the arete and then foot traversing back across the sloping ramp that is part of Nobody's Home, but I don't know of it being led that way. Anyone? Classic MP - soon the name, FA list, and ensuing thread will be longer than the new terrain on the climb.... May 1, 2012
I thought that the roof had been done in 1987, and called Domestic Abuse? FA Doub, Arran, Panjiller. Does Nobody's Home climb different terrain? Apr 30, 2012