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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Royal Robbins & Pat Ament, 1964
Page Views: 3,606 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

On the South-West face of Castle rock, slightly more West than South, there is a wall that forms a slight amphitheater. The Buttress holding Skunk Crack, Comeback Crack, and Curving Crack forms the left-hand margin, and the famous old Aid Roof (now freed) form the right-hand margin.

The back left corner of this amphitheater is a huge dihedral with an overhanging wide crack route called Bailey's Overhang (5.8). Just to the right of Bailey's Overhang, perhaps some 30 feet is The Final Exam. Coffin Crack lies just to the right of The Final Exam.

To climb The Final Exam, climb up and left on a flake-like feature to just below a thin crack through a bulge, not far from the ground. Climb up through the bulge on reasonable pro, and then up the crack system until it begins to run out. At that point step right to another crack, and after a short distance back left to a multiple cracks system, which has reappeared. These cracks will take you to the base of an obvious roof. At the roof you may traverse left to finish on Bailey's Overhang, right to finish on Coffin Crack, or best of all, shoot straight up through the (sandbagged) Pass Fail Option (5.11a???) to get above the roof.

Climb any of the finishes to reach a ledge up and left of the center of the roof and belay.

From there a set of raps, or downclimbing to the raps above Polyester Leisure Suit will get you back to the ground.

Protection

A set of brass nuts + a standard set of nuts and cams to 2.5" or larger, depending on the finish.

If finishing on Pass/Fail Option (5.11a) take a set of cams 1.5" to 3" for that. If finishing on Coffin Crack (5.10) or Bailey's Overhang (5.8), take pro to 4".

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
I thought this climb was pretty good. It was very difficult for me to not do the crux move dynamically. Good route, brief but burly crux. Well protected with small cams. Jun 24, 2013
Soloed this on sight, 25 years ago. Funny thing is, the few occasions times since then I’ve tried it on toprope, I’ve never been able to get up it at all...sigh..... Apr 13, 2012
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11
Didn't lead this, but I think you can get good nuts and small cams on lead.

If you want to TR this just start 6' to the left and go up a 5.8 crack...anywhere you want below the big roof (Pass Fail) you can setup a TR anchor. Right below the Pass Fail roof I setup and anchor with nuts/small cams, but if you have several hand size pieces you can set a belay anywhere along the way.

To descend: You can traverse across to the rap above Coffin Crack or finish Bailey's Overhang route. I clipped the rope into the rap station and put a few pieces on the traverse before I went over there, fyi.

It felt way easier now, but still feels solid 5.11 to me. :) Especially if you are going to onsight this thing! Mar 13, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Maybe smaller fingers help. I got a really good left ring finger knuckle in at the crux that let me fire up high to the next clings and jug. But it took me 2 tries to find it- first try just bloodied me. Jul 1, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
I agree with Paul, this route handed me my ass in a waffle cone. I thought I was strong until.... Nov 25, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11
If you are expecting Boulder Canyon 5.11a, think again. This is trad 5.11a rating all the way. It felt like 5.11 moves to me....especially if we were talking onsight grading. Having said that - after working the moves, it really was several 5.10 moves to one burly move and then you're done. Felt more like a sequency boulder problem, because once you gain the slab it is so much easier.

There is a fixed nut in place right at the crux presently. Jun 25, 2008