Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Royal Robbins & Pat Ament, 1964
Page Views: 5,176 total · 28/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


53 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the impressive offwidths just to the right of Coffin Crack that splits the left side of the aid roof. Boulder up to a quarter inch bolt and make some insecure moves to get situated under the roof. Dive into the gaping offwidth above and squeeze through two slots, up the squeeze chimney to where you can easily traverse left to the top of Coffin Crack to belay (there was a slung pinch on 7/03 to rap off of that can be backed up with small tcus to belay). Some gear can be found in the back of the crack as well as in a flake on the right side of the crack about halfway up. -JG

Protection

Single set of cams from purple Metolius - #3 Camalot, nuts and a few draws. Pants.

Photos

Bruce Hildenbrand  
  5.9+
A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try. Apr 8, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Good technique goes a long way on this one, so lack of technique will earn you a thrashing. One reality about seconding this is that if you slide out of the slot you can't get back in and have to be lowered to the ground. This climb belongs in Yosemite, or is at least good training for nasty Yosemite wide cracks. Apr 9, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Way impressive that Joe (in the photo) is leading this thing without knee pads! Full body armor recommended. Good warm up for Coffin Crack! Apr 9, 2004
Robert Stetler
  5.9+
Robert Stetler  
  5.9+
I wonder why it's so rarely climbed?

Fun route, I plan to redpoint it once I have healed. Jul 6, 2004
The first time I tried this was left side in and I got 'thrashed'. The second time up a fist jam after the bolt allowed me to stuff my right shoulder in and after a bit of sissy kicking the rest of the route was dispatched with a minimal donation of epidermal tissue. Two stars for sure. Jul 30, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Those "5.9+" moves to get into the darn thing sure felt hard to me. I thought it was harder than Coffin Crack, to the left, which gets 10b. I did do this climb left-side in. Above comment suggests that's wrong, but it seemed best to me- maybe it wasn't right?
Also, I placed my #4 Camalot low (left of the bolt) and ended up runout above. Jun 5, 2006
Adri.n Robert
boulder, co
Adri.n Robert   boulder, co
I thought this thing was way harder than Coffin Crack. We actually warmed up on the other one, and although I probably looked as equally pathetic on both routes, this one gave me relatively less grief. The moves from the face into the OW were the business to me. Next step, red point! Oct 8, 2006
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
A single set from #1 to #6 C4, with possibly two #4s, will protect this route nicely.
Took me several attempts to get a redpoint on this one, but I learned a lot about offwidth climbing in the process.
Yeah, it's a bit harder than a 5.10 OW, that's why it's rated 5.9+! Jul 29, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
Right side in, I found plenty of good holds on the sidewall to help, and some solid handjams. There's still plenty of chicken winging.

Josh L. replaced the bolt last night during our Tuesday night offwidth assault meeting. Oct 15, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I once took a huge fall onto that quarter inch bolt. I somehow just got spat out of the thing! Oct 17, 2008
Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the gear anchor from By Gully.

As others have said, this route took me a few tries to lead, but taught me a lot about OW along the way. Highly recommended.

Regarding Left or Right side in--I've tried both and found Left side in to be a little easier, but the difference is minor.

A bolt has been added to the sling anchor at the top of Coffin Crack, so it's a much better rap station now. Aug 26, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.9+
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.9+
First Ascent: Royal Robbins and PAT AMENT, 1964.

I remember a time when this really felt 5.9+. We were all better at squeeze chimneys before cams because the arm bar was often the best pro on the rack. Sep 10, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
This thing is brutal! Tried to lead it yesterday and was thouroughly humbled. I lobbed out onto the bolt at first (which I used a 48" sling on, oops!), pinching my junk between my harness and my leg. I was at the point where you get the first good jamb, but I couldn't get it set well enough to get pro in, pretty good distance. I was in great pain at that point so I came down. I went back up and got to the same point, threw in a crap #1 sloppily and hung, then placed a green/yellow hybrid and replaced the #1 with a truck #2. I then proceeded to lob out about 3 more times as I worked above the cam.

I came down again as I was in great pain, my friend todd went up next. He lobbed out at least 3 times trying to get up past the roof only to admit defeat (he's been onsighting 11+ sport lately and working 12s on TR, generaly climbing 10-11 trad). We had another member to our team, so he went up to give it a try, suffering the same fate, lobbing out probly 3 or 4 times. I gave it another go lobbing out 2 more times, finally giving up and cleaning the gear.

For those of you like us who have to bail, I recommend setting a knot chock flicker knot in the juggy flake below the bolt, then you can un-clip the bolt and lower to the ground off the knot. I cliped some cord and extra runners into the loop above the knot to assist in retrieving it. Apr 11, 2010
slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
Jason, is the bolt still a really, old, crappy one? Maybe a button head or something? If so, yikes! Apr 12, 2010
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Slim, the button head was replaced with a modern bolt when they did the Tuesday night OW, as I think was stated above.

Thanks goodness for that, I'd be pretty F'ed right now if it wasn't I would think. Apr 12, 2010
Overheard on this route today (and no, it wasn't me):

Leader (just through the crux, hangover kicking in): "This was a REALLY bad idea."

Belayer/girlfriend: "If you puke on me, I'm dumping you!"

...ten feet higher, he puked...luckily missing his belayer.

Classic! Oct 26, 2013
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Did this as a long-anticipated and really fun onsight yesterday. This is one of the best and steepest offwidths/squeeze chimneys I have done in the Boulder area. A few things to note to make your climb more enjoyable: getting into the crack wasn't bad with 6' height and +1 ape, but my slightly shorter friends found the moves into the initial jams quite challenging. Right side in felt like the way to go for the 1st two bulges, but I could see going left side in if you wanted to skip all of the good edges inside the crack. I highly recommend not wearing a shoulder sling due to the amount of full-immersion tunneling involved. The crux for me was moving the 5 and 6 the %@$# out of the way so I could make upward progress. I would recommend singles from fingers to 5 or 6 for this route, depending on how comfortable you are running it out on 5.8 #6 offwidth. Rack everything on the left hip for the first 2/3 of the route, then either continue right side in or re-rack on the right hip to do the last bulge left side in. Jul 23, 2015
Anika Rmy
Fort Collins, CO
Anika Rmy   Fort Collins, CO
Establishing yourself into the chimney is the crux of this pitch, but made easier by facing right side in with a slammer hand jam, eventually turning left side in for most of the remainder of the climb (best to take off your helmet or it will get stuck, and obviously hang your gear out of the way of your ass).\

I placed a #.3 above the bolt, a #4 low, two #5s, #6, #4.5, #4, and a #2. The gear is all straightforward, but make sure you have good offwidth technique - I thought I did, but this route was a serious reality check. Oct 14, 2017
E Mann
front range CO
5.9+
E Mann   front range CO
5.9+
I am by no means an experienced OW climber but didn't think this was too bad. My slim 5'6" 130 lb frame probably helped. Protected the initial entry moves with a #1 above the bolt and went right side in. Once you're in it, use pretty straitforward squeeze chimney technique with a handful of good holds to ease the difficulty. The big key for me was to turn around so my left side is in and rerack on my right side at the second little bulge. Got creative with switching gear from left side to right side. Rack (c4s): 0.5, 1, 2x 2, 4, 5, 6, 2 slings for the top, 1 quickdraw - felt very safe. Tie your knot long for maximum squeezing! Oct 29, 2017