Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: M. Shannon, 1980
Page Views: 1,727 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Follow the directions as per Final Exam. Approach the upper roof, 70 feet off of the ground, via Final Exam, Bailey's Overhang, or Coffin Crack.

To climb Pass Fail Option from Final Exam, do not belay - just continue upward. If approached from Bailey's Overhang or Coffin Crack, you will want to set a belay at the center of the roof and bring your partner up, to avoid drag. Jam through the middle of the roof on awkward-sized jams, get horizontal, and go for it before the pump completely saps you.

Once above the roof, continue upward on easy ground to reach a ledge up and left of the center of the roof and belay.

From there, a set of raps or downclimbing to the raps above Polyester Leisure Suit will get you back to the ground.

Protection

A standard rack of cams from 1.5" to 3" + gear as required for an approach pitch. Might be easier to lead than clean due to gear positions.

Photos

Rich Farnham
  5.11c
Rich Farnham  
  5.11c
This roof has some great moves and a wild lip.

A few comments about gear and rope drag. Linking into this straight out of Final Exam is a great pitch, but the rope drag can be problematic. Once onto the slab after Final Exam, set a few pieces and drop a loop of rope to your belayer. Then you can go back on belay without the rope running through all of the gear on Final Exam to avoid that drag. Your rope will only be going through the pieces you placed on the slab.

A green Alien is the best piece I found to protect the move up into the roof crack, and a green Camalot (0.75) protects the roof crack. The gear is good and the fall is clean -- I proved this several times before finally getting this thing clean!

Also there is a new(ish) anchor about 10' up and right after pulling the roof. It is the top of "The Dropout Option" (12+, not on this site yet). You can lower to the ground from here with a 60m rope. Jun 25, 2011