Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: The Great John Gill
Page Views: 4,839 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ryan Sayers on Feb 19, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The really cool and impressive boulder problem to the right of the start to Jackson's Wall. Basically, start on the right side of the little bouldering area with two crimps in the horizontal crack under a little roof. Make a few tough pulls up and left past another horizontal crack and small crimp, and wind up grappling with a nasty sloper. Fight your way to the top, and be impressed by Mr. Gill's skills.

Protection

Pads and a spot.

Photos

This rig is always a killer warm-up for me, but I love the line. Aug 24, 2009
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
This picture is not of AO, it's a V5 by Cage Free. Nice picture, it to is a great boulder problem. Aug 24, 2009
Nice pic, wrong problem, not even the right formation. This is on the Citadel, a hundred yards and over the bridge from the real AO. Aug 24, 2009
Sorry about the wrong photo beta info...guys. I think this one is called "The Standard Bulge." And this V5 is on the Citadel formation for sure. Thanks for your input. Aug 25, 2009
If you start down low in on a crimp rail system, below where the original line traverses, and make a huge dynamic toss that reconnects the original line it's more like (V6)!! It's a cool move that is put's a new face on this already classic line.

Also moving off this same crimp rail up and left via smaller but positive crimps adds another cool variation that's about (V4) or so.

Point.... this is a cool and dynamic wall with some interesting options for difficulty and style of climbing. Not to be missed!! Aug 25, 2009
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
I remember going here around 1976 with Ament's Master of Rock book. Bachar and I were trying to do all the problems in the book and it had a classic of Gill with a hat on powering across the traverse. I remember thinking this problem was pretty classic but without pads, you had to fire it for sure, as the fall was onto rocks. This seemed more tenuous than soloing the longer Gill Crack (5.12a or so).

John Aug 2, 2010
D@n Morta
Boulder, CO
 
D@n Morta   Boulder, CO
 
The landing has been leveled, and there is no need for the R rating any longer.

I don't really know how to feel about the extensive landscaping that took place here. On one hand, I'm grateful to finally have a terrific warmup on perfect rock with a safe landing zone. On the other, the landscaping totally changes the nature of this climb and the bold, visionary, first ascent will never again be pause for reflection when one contemplates this line.

I hope that in the future, when traffic and erosion dictates trail building, people (or counties) will consider all resources before building ten foot wide trails at the bases of rock formations. Apr 9, 2012
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  V5 PG13
ROCKMAN2   Nederland, CO
  V5 PG13
The original start of AO seems a bit awkward and hard to reach without jumping, even for me at 5'9" with a +2. I started far right on an obvious, juggy rail/seam and crossed/crimped my way into the crux of AO. Felt V5ish and was great fun! Excellent features/movement on quality stone. Classic! Apr 25, 2017
Matth Person
  V5-6
Matth Person  
  V5-6
This problem was much more difficult than Altered-acro for me, but that problem is reach-dependent. Jun 24, 2018