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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: The Great John Gill
Page Views: 4,461 total, 25/month
Shared By: Ryan Sayers on Feb 19, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The really cool and impressive boulder problem to the right of the start to Jackson's Wall. Basically, start on the right side of the little bouldering area with two crimps in the horizontal crack under a little roof. Make a few tough pulls up and left past another horizontal crack and small crimp, and wind up grappling with a nasty sloper. Fight your way to the top, and be impressed by Mr. Gill's skills.

Protection

Pads and a spot.

Photos

NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
  V5 PG13
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
  V5 PG13
The original start of AO seems a bit awkward and hard to reach without jumping, even for me at 5'9" with a +2. I started far right on an obvious, juggy rail/seam and crossed/crimped my way into the crux of AO. Felt V5ish and was great fun! Excellent features/movement on quality stone. Classic! Apr 25, 2017
D@n Morta
Boulder, CO
 
D@n Morta   Boulder, CO
 
The landing has been leveled, and there is no need for the R rating any longer.

I don't really know how to feel about the extensive landscaping that took place here. On one hand, I'm grateful to finally have a terrific warmup on perfect rock with a safe landing zone. On the other, the landscaping totally changes the nature of this climb and the bold, visionary, first ascent will never again be pause for reflection when one contemplates this line.

I hope that in the future, when traffic and erosion dictates trail building, people (or counties) will consider all resources before building ten foot wide trails at the bases of rock formations. Apr 9, 2012
I remember going here around 1976 with Ament's Master of Rock book. Bachar and I were trying to do all the problems in the book and it had a classic of Gill with a hat on powering across the traverse. I remember thinking this problem was pretty classic but without pads, you had to fire it for sure, as the fall was onto rocks. This seemed more tenuous than soloing the longer Gill Crack (5.12a or so).

John Aug 2, 2010
If you start down low in on a crimp rail system, below where the original line traverses, and make a huge dynamic toss that reconnects the original line it's more like (V6)!! It's a cool move that is put's a new face on this already classic line.

Also moving off this same crimp rail up and left via smaller but positive crimps adds another cool variation that's about (V4) or so.

Point.... this is a cool and dynamic wall with some interesting options for difficulty and style of climbing. Not to be missed!! Aug 25, 2009
Sorry about the wrong photo beta info...guys. I think this one is called "The Standard Bulge." And this V5 is on the Citadel formation for sure. Thanks for your input. Aug 25, 2009
Nice pic, wrong problem, not even the right formation. This is on the Citadel, a hundred yards and over the bridge from the real AO. Aug 24, 2009
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
This picture is not of AO, it's a V5 by Cage Free. Nice picture, it to is a great boulder problem. Aug 24, 2009
This rig is always a killer warm-up for me, but I love the line. Aug 24, 2009