Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 2,005 total · 24/month
Shared By: Cedar Wright on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Mexican Picnic

This is a little known Castle Rock classic ferreted out by the prolific Topher Donahue that branches right off of Country Club Crack about thirty feet from the end of the first pitch, for about eighty feet of independent climbing. This really is one of the best pitches at Castle, but bring lots of slings to avoid rope drag at the crux which is the last move to the anchor.

About fifty feet up Country Club, move out right to a bolt. Clip the bolt with a long sling and then arrive on a ledge to the right of the Country Club first pitch anchor where you can place a stopper on a long sling to protect a traverse into a right-facing lie-back flake that goes at goey 5.11. Head up the flake to an anchor and clip it with a long sling and make delicate undercling traverse left to a bolt on the wild arete to the right of C.C. Punch it up the arete making crux moves out right of the crack to perfect jug at the anchor which is one bolt and a very cool thread.

You could also do a variety of other starts into this climb including the holdless and next to impossible Tourist Extravagance. For extra credit, link into it via the second ascent of Topher's wild looking "Skateboard Ramp" that heads leftt above the crux of Tourist through mysterious 5.13 stemming.

Protection

You only need a small rack of thin pieces for this climb, as mostly you are clipping pins and a couple bolts with long slings, but make sure you have a #0 TCU for the crux at the end.

Location

Start up Country Club Crack and move right after about 50 feet.

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topher donahue
Nederland, CO
topher donahue   Nederland, CO
For the full 5.13 enchilada, start at the Water World dihedral right of Tourist Extravagance, go up 30'and traverse left across a burly undercling/jam, cross Tourist Extravagance above its bolt ladder, clip 2 bolts with some vertical yoga in the Skatepark scoop thing, and finish up the Mexican Picnic arete cracks.

For the mild-ish 5.11 tamale, climb the 5.11 section of Mexican Picnic from Country Club to the anchor at 30 meters, just before the upper 5.12 crux.

A 70 meter rope just makes the lower off from the top anchor. Apr 24, 2012
Ben Sachs
  5.12b
Ben Sachs  
  5.12b
Fun and Exciting. Still cleaning up a bit. May 18, 2012
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.12b
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.12b
What a wild route! It's definitely seeing a bit of action, judging from chalk, and seems plenty clean and safe. Sep 20, 2012
ChanVan Schaack
Denver, CO
  5.12b/c
ChanVan Schaack   Denver, CO
  5.12b/c
Great line! Harder than it seemed at first. Placing the gear after the last bolt is pumpy, but it's there if you can hang around to find it - then all you have to worry about is the crux! Tons of slings are helpful. May 30, 2013