Type: Trad, 135 ft (41 m)
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 3,444 total · 24/month
Shared By: Cedar Wright on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Mexican Picnic Suggest change

This is a little known Castle Rock classic ferreted out by the prolific Topher Donahue that branches right off of Country Club Crack about thirty feet from the end of the first pitch, for about eighty feet of independent climbing. This really is one of the best pitches at Castle, but bring lots of slings to avoid rope drag at the crux which is the last move to the anchor.

About fifty feet up Country Club, move out right to a bolt. Clip the bolt with a long sling and then arrive on a ledge to the right of the Country Club first pitch anchor where you can place a stopper on a long sling to protect a traverse into a right-facing lie-back flake that goes at goey 5.11. Head up the flake to an anchor and clip it with a long sling and make delicate undercling traverse left to a bolt on the wild arete to the right of C.C. Punch it up the arete making crux moves out right of the crack to perfect jug at the anchor which is one bolt and a very cool thread.

You could also do a variety of other starts into this climb including the holdless and next to impossible Tourist Extravagance. For extra credit, link into it via the second ascent of Topher's wild looking "Skateboard Ramp" that heads leftt above the crux of Tourist through mysterious 5.13 stemming.

Protection Suggest change

You only need a small rack of thin pieces for this climb, as mostly you are clipping pins and a couple bolts with long slings, but make sure you have a #0 TCU for the crux at the end.

Location Suggest change

Start up Country Club Crack and move right after about 50 feet.


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