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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Candelaria's Connection T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Walter Bailey, et al. 1950s.
Page Views: 9,821 total · 45/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This route takes the huge, right-facing corner on the southwest face ... starts up steep fist crack and gains large ramp ... cruise this ramp/huge dihedral up to an overhanging slot/wide crack (#4.5 or #5 Camalot can protect this well ... also the medium hex way in the back). Make strenuous moves thru overhang and cruise a nice crack up large, right-facing corner until you can belay on left at slung horn.


Bring stoppers and cams (medium to large) ... could use a #5 Camalot or equivalent for crux slot (good medium hex placement way up inside slot to protect crux also).

There are Fixe rappel rings at the top.
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Ditto for sure on this one. The key to the crux is getting that right foot in a small oblong pocket. I was gripped a bit until I found that baby. A sweet 5.8 do the rappel to chains above Curving Crack. 4 slings and ring are permanent now. Aug 13, 2001
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I love this route also. The overhang is NOT strenuous. It's almost no hands if you do it as a chimney. Back to the right, feet on the left on good holds. Move up and out. Turn around at the top. A couple big cams are useful but not necessary as another poster mentioned. Last time I did it (Spring 2001) there were slings up and left from the top of the first pitch. These did not look permanent.

Ivan Rezucha Sep 5, 2001
I agree that the "crux" isn't particularly strenuous- in fact I strained more on the first few moves off the ground. Just squeeze it a little and recall the womb. :) It also looked to me like a good call to skip the upper pitches, so we did- there is now a beefy fixed cable with a rap link just above and left of the end of the first pitch on the left side of a large ledge- can easily reach the ground from there with a 60m, and of course the anchor above curving crack. Enjoy. Jun 2, 2002
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
At the crux, stay close in the crack, and face the opposite block. I used a small seam hold high and placed right foot on solid, high placement, and stepped up on it. Chalk on the foot placement is a dead giveaway. But you must step up high. A bit awkward and good exposed at this crux. I was too far right when I did this last year, no foot placement there. Hug the crack and look to place that right foot about knee height. This is a pretty cool little corner to turn. Aug 9, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
You can protect this climb pretty well without wide gear, but with a 4.5 camalot, it looked like I could have had gear overhead almost anywhere. I [did] the route "backwards" apparently, with my back to the left and feet to the right and it still felt like 5.8, so I think either way is do-able.The route seemed like a 2-star route, and maybe 3-star if you keep going and 'finish' on P2 of Coffin Crack (5.10 handcrack-to-fistcrack through a roof) May 19, 2003
At the top of Bailey's Overhang (after the crux) you can bail over to the north and you find a steel cable wrapped around the top of a huge boulder. One can rap from this down to the top of curving crack or maybe even to the ground with a long rope. It looks like the only thing holding this boulder up there is a human head sized chockstone at the bottom of it. It made me think twice about being attached to that boulder...maybe I am just is probably ok, but at some point it may rip loose...that would be very bad. Sep 2, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
A 60m rope just makes it to the ground when rappelling from the steel cable that Paul mentions. Jul 20, 2004
Great Route, I am a beginner 5.8 climber and found the moves very easy. At the crux overhang, on the left is a solid ledge to stand on. Once you have your feet on the ledge its easy to pull over the roof, the hands are big jugs above the roof (on the right side of the crack). At the overhang I stuck in a #5 Friend that subsiquently walked to an open position as I turned the roof. Perhaps a really big hex would have been better? After that the climbing is very easy. The rap anchor is a very scary looking boulder with a steel cable around it. It looks completely detached? I would use something else to rap next time. A very awesome route! -Jason Shatek Oct 5, 2004
I agree with Larry on this one. The boulder at the top with the steel cable around it looks very very unsafe!!! The boulder is completely detached and looks like it could go if you had someone big enough rappeling on it. I'm not a big bolt person but for safety sake I think it would be a great idea if someone put in some bolts at the top of this route and removed the steel cable. I'm certain it would look better than the cable and be much more safe! Nov 22, 2004
Watch out for the cable sling at the top of Bailey's Overhang. The boulder is completely detached! If someone large were to rap off that thing, it could pull. It is way scary! Dec 2, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
This is an excellent and sustained pitch. For me, the crux is at the start: insecure flared cracks and slippery feet. Above, sustained crack climbing leads to the roof. There is a bomber yellow Alien placement in a crack on the right, just before you make the final move over the roof. Backstep with the left foot to the highest foothold, then stem the right foot on the lip of the roof, and it's over. Done this way, the roof feels like 5.7.

I used doubles on #1 and #2 Camalots, and didn't place anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot will give you bomber pro below the roof, but I was happy with the yellow Alien a few moves higher. Jul 9, 2005
My partner and I climbed this route a couple of weeks ago. What a nice climb until you get to the top of the first pitch. We took a good look at the cable slung boulder and decided against using it to rap. We didn't want to trust our lives to what appears to be a completely detached boulder supported by a helmet sized chockstone.

We climbed to the top and downclimbed as for Cussin' Crack, Jackson's Wall, etc. Once we found the correct trail, it wasn't too bad.

Any chance of relocating the cable? Sep 15, 2006
I found this route fun and well protected. The overhang moves at the top are easy once you see it.

I echo what is said above that the climbing after the first pitch is less than great and your options to rap are sketchy at best. Worth the hassel though, very fun movement. Sep 20, 2007
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
We didn't like the looks of the cable/rap anchor, so we continued up to the top of the crag. By heading up and left from the cable we got to a decent chimney with clean and solid rock in the back of it. Easy climbing on that second pitch, but there aren't a lot of chimney pitches in Boulder Canyon, so it was a nice surprise. (Perhaps this is the upper pitch of the West Face?) Jun 15, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I just climbed this on 6/16/08. A very well protected lead. I left a new sling at the rusty piton halfway up. Didn't trust old runners. Didn't really trust the rusty piton either. But I used it anyways. Jun 21, 2008
Nick Orticelle
Denver, Co
Nick Orticelle   Denver, Co
Our 4th climb of the day. Planned on it being my first 5.8 trad lead...then I got my foot stuck right in the beginning...getting super tired trying to get it out without decking head first. Anyway...ended up following, and thought it was a super fun climb. Nothing super difficult, but felt like a true 5.8...wasn't a walk in the park by any means for a newer climber. Jun 1, 2009
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
Climbed 5/31/09 with S. Costello...First pitch is excellent, probably the best moderate at Castle. The roof does need a big cam, but there are good placements below that would hold a fall. I did it left side in, with a left-foot backstep to a solid foothold, then pulled over on jugs. This is a fun and not terribly difficult move.

There IS quality climbing above the first pitch. We finished on a 40-50 foot left-facing 5.7 corner that looks kinda dirty and grassy but is actually fairly fun. The descent is made much easier if you can locate the big Douglas-fir with the rap chain. Jun 1, 2009
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
My eyes nearly popped out of my head when I saw the cable/rap anchor. I placed 2 Fixe ring anchors in a better location. I was not able to disassemble the cable as one of the nuts was stuck. I will remove it later this week. Aug 10, 2009
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Thanks for taking care of this, Greg! Aug 10, 2009
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
The cable/rap anchor has been removed. Use the Fixe anchors.
If you want to do a 2nd pitch, see Beetle Bailey. Aug 20, 2009


Thanks for replacing the mess of an anchor that was there. Now, instead of grovelling to the top and doing the downclimb (because I refused to rap off of the old anchor), I can get back to the base quicker and get rolling on the next route. I was always amazed that the old anchor didn't just fall of the cliff under its own weight. Aug 21, 2009
Rodger Raubach  
I agree that it's a "one pitch wonder!" A rap station after the first lead would get a workout and make the climb more popular. Bolts and chains, anyone? Mar 12, 2011
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
If you look a few comments up, you will see I put in an anchor in Aug. 2009. Perhaps an admin should update the route description to reflect this. There is now a good (bolted) 2nd pitch called Beetle Bailey. Mar 14, 2011
Don Morris
Golden, CO
Don Morris   Golden, CO
Thanks for the anchors. You will find them after climbing above the overhang and to the left on a nice ledge. This is a nice climb to freshen up on trad climbing for the summer. Mar 27, 2011
Rodger Raubach  

I didn't see the earlier note. This will add to the popularity of this climb.

As an additional comment here; this isn't really the "original" Bailey's overhang route. The original route is about 15 feet to the right, if my failing memory hasn't failed me.... May 22, 2011
Benten   Denver
The medium hex can be done, and you can also lug a #4-5, but anyone with a sense of adventure should just have faith in the 5.8 holds because they are there. Aug 15, 2011
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
Is the boulder that the cable was on gone? I couldn't recognize it. Lots of big loose blocks up there, but they didn't look like the one the cable was around....

This used to be rated 5.6. Sep 16, 2011
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I am sure the boulder is still there. I only removed the cable so no one would use it. You probably do not recognize it, because a sane person would not even consider it as a valid rappel anchor! Sep 17, 2011
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
Where is it in relation to the new anchor? I remember what it looked like, with the little, head-sized rock supporting it. I even rapped off it, so you can imagine I looked at it pretty hard (waiting for it to fall and kill me).... Didn't notice it today, so I assumed it got trundled. But if you say it is there, I believe you.

Thanks for the new anchor. Sep 17, 2011
I thought this was a 4 star or 3 star route depending on the maximum amount of stars for a route.
Nice start with some clean and fun crack climbing up to a big roof.
The would guess the overhang can either be 5.8 grunting or some very tame 5.6/7 stemming.
Great climb. Nov 26, 2012
Eric Werfel
  5.8 PG13
Eric Werfel   Patagonia
  5.8 PG13
I didn't find this route worthy of more than 1 star. As some have mentioned, I found the 'crux' to be quite easy, almost no-hands. I post the following for safety reasons.

1. The first 40' is very poorly protected until you get to the overhanging block in the corner. You can put some larger cams in, but the cracks are all flared. They look pretty good at ground-height, but it's misleading. I would give this a PG rating.

2. Bring extra #2-#4 cams. Leave the 0.75 and smaller on the ground. There's a few good nut placements once you're in the corner but not where you want them. Sep 12, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The last comment says you can place #2s, but I had two and did not use either. Small cams, a #3, and a #4 are what I used, and there are also good nuts. I did this climb in 1996, and it was fun to do it again in 2015. Makes me feel old.... Apr 6, 2015

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