Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: P. Zoller & E. McKigney,
Page Views: 2,576 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

The route lies on the west end of Castle Rock, Northwest of Curving Crack and Skunk Crack by some 50+ feet. The route is easily found by locating a very large roof which hangs 30' above the ground, and 50+ feet below the right-most of two Doctor-Seuss-looking pine trees. There are 3 bolts on the face above the roof.

Climb a left-facing open book to the left hand edge of the roof, then lock off hard in a few horizontals, get your body horizontal, then push hard with the feet to move out right the the center of the roof. You will grasp a good square hold out above, from which you can clip the first bolt. Match on this edge, flip though to horizontal and then head back left with a very big move to a good jug. This can be done statically or dynamically. Either way it is another big move. Match again and once more flip though to face right again. Set some feet and move up before reaching high right to a bulbous side-pull. You can now clip the second bolt. Head up the face for an anchor on the tree, passing one more bolt along the way. You can rap, but not lower from this due to drag.

Tall people will find that this route is appropriately graded. Steel shoulders and height are the keys here. Shorter people will find the route to be massively sandbagged (5.12+?) I tried to do the route straight-through on TR without the back and forth and found it utterly impossible to even dog my way up it without bumping left to the jugs in the roof. In hindsight, the wandering line is a great gymnastic and mental workout which seems out-of-line but in effect never takes you far from the line of protection.

Protection

The protection depends on how Ballsy you are. You could do this on nothing but the 3 bolts if you wanted to commit to that, but as the books suggest, gear to about 2" seems like a good idea.

The good horizontal coming out of the big roof before the crux crackles a little when you yard on it, so it seems it may one day blow out. You would not want to be 30' off the deck and horizontal and blow that hold before you clip the first bolt.

One can also get to the tree and rap anchor above by way of a traverse from above the West Face, which is 5.5, and set a TR from there.

Photos