Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kent Lugbill & Greg Hand, 8/20/2009
Page Views: 3,219 total · 28/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Aug 20, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climb the left center of the clean face high above Bailey's Overhang. Good climbing with the crux at the 7th bolt. A 60 meter rope gets you back down to the anchors at the top of Bailey's Overhang, which you then take to the ground. A shorter rope will NOT work.

Location

This is 50 feet above the bolt anchor at the top of Bailey's Overhang. May be approached via Bailey's Overhang or the routes to the left.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. Optional #2 Friend after last bolt. Finger size gear for belay at base of pitch.

Photos

Dave Walker
  5.10b/c
Dave Walker  
  5.10b/c
Nice route. It adds some spice to Bailey's Overhang for the upper section. You can either rap from the anchors (2 raps to ground with one 60-m rope) or climb to the top of the formation and scramble down. This second option makes for a nice summit. Some may think Beetle Bailey is over-bolted, but the clips are well placed and the climbing is clean. I give it a 5.10b/c. Aug 30, 2009
Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish.

My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach. Jun 25, 2011
Thanks, gentlemen, for adding modern rap anchors above Baileys. I broke the thin, undercling flake out right from the crux. I would have to call it harder 5.10 now. Jul 8, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
A #2 Helium friend didn't fit into the suggested gear placement, but a green C4 works great. No need for any other gear except quickdraws of course....

We had tons of rope left rapping with our 70m. Seems like a 60m will reach (4th class down-climb if not). Sep 16, 2011
Kat A
Boulder, CO
Kat A   Boulder, CO
There are 2 sets of anchors that you can rap to from the top of this route - the anchors to the climbers right are slightly lower and we hit the ends of our 70 m rope. If using a 60m, I would aim for the other set. Jul 28, 2012
Kevin L
Boulder, CO
 
Kevin L   Boulder, CO
 
I am going to agree with s.kimball on the rating: 10+. I think it is my favorite 5.10 sport route in the canyon. Jun 21, 2017