Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Pat Ament, Greg Finoff 1984
Page Views: 1,266 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Apr 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start in the chimney just left of Tongo (the right angling ramp) on the south side.

This is an interesting route and kinda fun but nothing special. It's just funny watching people go up the chimney and arrange themselves for moving out to the face.

Squeeze up the chimney, then (like the pic below) you may sling the top horn of the chimney. Before committing to the face you can get some RPs in, but they are not the most solid, meaning that they may rattle around a bit.

Greg Hill led this and sewed up the crack with RPs which is probably a good idea. After the business of the short, thin section, move straight up and to the next ramp/ledge. From here, traverse right to the second anchors of Tongo.

Rap from these anchors.

Overall, the this may warrant an s- because of the less than ideal gear throughout the route.

Protection

Double sling, RPs, stoppers, small cams.

Photos

XOG
XOG  
There is about 40' of easy (5.0) traversing without tons of pro to get over to the Tongo anchors once done with the crux, so make sure the 2nd is down with that. Also as a leader you can't see the anchors until you are right at them, or from the ground, so check the topo showing where the anchors are carefully. I thought it was a fun route, solid rock and unusual climbing! May 1, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Adventurous little doo-hah. With much effort, I got 2 or 3 good RPs in a row in the flake exiting the chimney. A solid #7 stopper below backs up the whole mess. kind of fun moves for the first 30 feet, and then wander your way up on jugs and traverse to the Tongo second anchors. I don't think this one gets climbed much.

You don't need anything bigger than a .75 Camalot for the route. Aug 29, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
You can get good stoppers up to about a #8 outside of the chimney on the left. A very small RP comes first, but after that it's not "small."
The route can also be made more interesting by forcing it left and continuing rather than going up to the anchors on Tongo. After finishing the wide part, step up and left to a roof with a crack horizontal behind it- place a .75" cam and step over the roof, then slightly left again to join the face above. Continue upwards to 2 very thin parallel cracks with some rock jammed between. Place a very large stopper, then a small one (#5 BD) then step up and pull up and left over to the ramp of Jackson's Wall.
Be careful of these "trapped" stones- the top one, about the size of your head, is somewhat loose.
Belay on good gear and continue as for Cussin' Crack.
Cussin' can be made more interesting by climbing the hand and fist crack through the roof 1/2 way up. (5.9+?) May 17, 2006
topher donahue
Nederland, CO
topher donahue   Nederland, CO
For maximum value, clip the bolt (it was a rusty spinner but replaced in recent years) and climb into the thin crack without climbing the chimney to the left. 5.9 plus, hmm, about 10 letter grades.... Oct 5, 2012
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.7
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.7
Curious where people think the 5.9, let alone 5.9+, part is. The chimney? I found the chimney to be full of features and ledges for feet. It seemed like a typical Vedauwoo 5.7 for this part, and I expected the top to be harder, but instead found it to be quite tame. To clarify, I'm not trying to say anything about the Vedauwoo vs. BoCan grades, just that the Voo has quite a few granite squeeze chimneys to compare it to. May 25, 2015