Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Pat Ament, Greg Finoff 1984
Page Views: 2,039 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Apr 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

11 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Start in the chimney just left of Tongo (the right angling ramp) on the south side.

This is an interesting route and kinda fun but nothing special. It's just funny watching people go up the chimney and arrange themselves for moving out to the face.

Squeeze up the chimney, then (like the pic below) you may sling the top horn of the chimney. Before committing to the face you can get some RPs in, but they are not the most solid, meaning that they may rattle around a bit.

Greg Hill led this and sewed up the crack with RPs which is probably a good idea. After the business of the short, thin section, move straight up and to the next ramp/ledge. From here, traverse right to the second anchors of Tongo.

Rap from these anchors.

Overall, the this may warrant an s- because of the less than ideal gear throughout the route.

Protection Suggest change

Double sling, RPs, stoppers, small cams.