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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Jackson T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Boot Lead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V9- 7C
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alec Sharp & Matt Lavender, 1982
Page Views: 245 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Jul 14, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This climb ascends a left-facing corner via a fingertip lieback. Face holds lead up into the base of the corner below a tiny roof. This start is also the start of "Crank It" that then moves right into the next crack.

Place small nuts & execute a very difficult crux fingertip lieback. There is one horizontal face hold & a poor undercling tips lieback slot under the roof with slippery feet on polished black rock. Above the roof, the crux ends at a good fingerlock. The moves ease off to 5.11. At the top of the corner, the crack fades out. Step left onto a rounded knob on the blunt arete, & move into "The Campaigner; above the second bulge. Undercling back right to a good, jug flake.

I used to end the climb here, as it was possible to reach a bolt for the aid line Ground Zero (that is now Crank It). I don't know if it possible to reach the anchor on "Crank It" that is further right. It is possible to continue up a dihedral past 2 bolts (the top of "Nuclear Winter") to finish on the big ledge on "Cussin Crack".

I find it very amazing that no one has posted this route before now, considering the first ascent was in 1982 & I led it in 1986. After that, I top-roped it often after leading "Rebellion". This is a worthy piece of climbing. Protection can be placed every two or three feet, so perhaps it doesn't deserve the R rating. However, hanging on to place the gear is quite strenuous, & caution must be taken to get in good gear at the start. This includes an opposing piece to keep the gear from lifting out. I used double ropes when I led this climb. This adds a great amount of safety, allowing you to alternate ropes on each piece of protection.

D'Antonio's guidebook rates this climb 5.13b & says it was grossly underrated at .12b. Alec Sharp originally rated the climb 5.11+. I may have been the first to call the climb .12b. Years before I climbed it, John Sherman had told me he thought the climb was quite hard & a sandbag at 5.11+. One skinny fingered Brit, named John Aaron, told me it was .12a to toprope.

Location

This is between Rebellion & Crank It.

Protection

#3-6 RPs (Black Diamond steel nuts), # 6 stopper, and a 0.5"-0.75" cam. I didn't have Aliens when I led this route. Tiny to small cams may also be useful.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
Bob D'Antonio's latest Boulder Canyon guidebook co-authored with Jeff Achey, etc. really screwed the pooch on this section of the wall. What clueless bastards! They call this route "Innocent Victim" (5.13b) by Jerry Moffat. What Moffat climbed, must be a very short direct variation at the top of the corner, where VOC steps left into "The Campaigner". This would involve a few very difficult moves to reach the undercling flake. I vaguely remember trying this direct on top-rope.

They also go on to say that Rebellion is actually Victim Of Circumstance. Definitely not true. In 1986, I led this route (VOC) before establishing the first ascent of Rebellion. It was the only route right of The Campaigner, that had chalk on it then. VOC is definitely easier than Rebellion, even though the protection is more involved & strenuous to place. Mar 20, 2018

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