Type: Trad
FA: Adam Brink, July 10, 2023
Page Views: 228 total · 22/month
Shared By: Adam Brink on Jul 11, 2023
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Momentary Lapse of Reason is a true gritstone, headpoint experience right in the middle of Castle Rock. This is in a similar vein to Stingay and Nobody's Home in that you climb one of the classic crack lines and then launch off across an unprotected face.

Climb Athlete's Feat to the end of the crack crux on the second pitch. Stretch left, and struggle to place a cam under the little roof. Once you are certain the cam is bomber, stand up on the small foot ledge, and gather your nerves. From here, there is no more gear to the top. Take a breath, step left, and climb the arete and slab. There is a particular moment of clarity about 15-20 feet out from your gear where the arete ends and you have to mantel onto a sloping ledge with no secure holds. It is good fun, for sure!

Location Suggest change

Climb the short first pitch of Athlete's Feat and most of the second pitch before breaking left to climb the obvious, hanging arete.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack.

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