Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: FFA: C. Reveley and D. O'Mella, 1973
Page Views: 1,068 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 2, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a short climb with lots of action packed into it, including some tough jamming and insecure feet. It is consistently harder than it appears, and folks with smaller hands will do best in this climb.
Jam up the initial slightly steep section to a flare below the bulge (5.10a). Clip fixed gear to the right and pull right into the second crack (5.10). Continue up the second crack (5.11a) and a few face holds to the next ledge, wondering how you could have ended up so pumped in just a few feet of climbing.

Back up the fixed rap with gear to belay your partner.

Finish on Cussin' Crack to the top, or rap off with a 70m to the ground below (a 60m might work too, but I did not verify.)

Location

This climb is out and a few meters left of the belay atop of P1 of Cussin' Crack. Climb that route and traverse a few extra feet left on the ledge and belay from med-to-large nuts and med-to-small cams. The route climbs the obvious thin hands crack that goes up a few meters to a bulge, right, and then up a thin crack (crux, fixed nut and 1.75" cam) to the next ledge with a fixed rap (back it up to belay).

Protection

Protection from 1.5-3". A set of thin-hands cams and a few large nuts would more than suffice. The crux currently holds an excellent fixed stopper and will take an off-hands (thin) cam.

Photos

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In May 1968, I was in a Colorado Mtn Club Intermediate Mountaineering class. Mike Beringer led this on aid, using pitons. George Ripley and I followed. We encountered an owl standing/sitting on the spacious ledge atop the crack; then we did another pitch to the summit. I remember my first experience of the fragrance of granite. In '82, I followed Mike Bearzi up it (no aid, no owl). Jan 3, 2015
mike c
golden
  5.11b
mike c   golden
  5.11b
Replaced the tat today with Randy F. It was really deteriorated! A 60 meter rope does reach. A good, little, exposed crack. Aug 8, 2015