Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: ??? Ken Duncan or Jeff Achey???
Page Views: 2,659 total · 25/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jan 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climb the leaning, overhanging, corner crack just right of "Dead Line." Bicep pumping, under-clinging, crack fusion madness and solid, core tension coupled with a delicate dose of old school foot smearing should see you though to the more perplexing moves of pulling around the bulge and into the right-facing corner that joins with the ending of "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."

Great line!! Both powerful and technical climbing that is sure to entertain all those who attempt this obvious and attractive old school classic. Don't get ahead of yourself on this route and you should do fine.

Either 2nd the line on (TR) to clean it or continue to the summit (not recommended) via 1 or 2 short pitches if you wish. Beware of lose rock towards the summit if topping out "Castle Rock."

It's possible to (TR) this line by climbing "Rebellion" if you can get some gear in just around and under the crux bulge. Still...it's a much better lead!!

Location

Located in the big roof area on the west side of "Castle Rock" just right of "Dead Line." It's the right-most, leaning, roof crack just before you turn the corner heading towards "Rebellion" and "Crank It."

Protection

Gear to about 2 inches. Fixed anchor that is shared with "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."

Photos

Andrew Walters
Grand Junction, CO
Andrew Walters   Grand Junction, CO
Just got back from a rainy day aid practice session and this route was perfect. Great gear, and totally dry as opposed to the A2 roof crack next door. Sep 12, 2012
mike c
golden
 
mike c   golden
 
I removed the 2nd pin (#3 angle). It was loose and damaged. I did not replace it as it is not needed...plenty of gear (small cams). I also removed the first pin (#1 angle). It was damaged as well but not as bad as the second pin. I replaced it with a brand new one. Now it's a little safer and solid for some whippin' and such. Jun 21, 2014

 
You tha man, C! Will be gettin' on this soon. Apr 30, 2016
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
I watched Mark Rolofson work this about 1982, completely mobbed by lycra clad hard-women. Austin Power's mojo is nothing compared to Mark's. Women in Boulder would push and shove at the grocery store just to stand next to him in line! Later, just like a super-agent, he would keep us safe from the trad bullies. Aug 16, 2018