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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 3,215 total, 27/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Mar 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is 2/3 of the way up. It is a fun route.

Location

This is on the face/arete right of Comeback Crack and left of Curving Crack. It is a new route, 1 year old.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
5.11b/c
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
5.11b/c
Not a squeeze job in the slightest. Super fun route! A little heady around the third bolt with that ledge looming beneath you. I blew it and landed right on it. Totally mellow fall though! If you get nervous about that, don't be. Just enjoy the fun, techy climbing. Aug 2, 2016
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11
What a great route. Excellent face moves down low and then a superb balancy crux to arĂȘte climbing. A worthy addition! You could top rope it, but...why? Leading this route will put a smile on your face! Nov 16, 2013
Todd Felix
  5.11
Todd Felix  
  5.11
This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before.

I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts?? Nov 4, 2013
Tried it today fanlly on TR! And got worked! Lol. Great line. Wild blunt arĂȘte and face climbing. Sep 6, 2012
Tombo
Boulder
 
Tombo   Boulder
 
Great sport route requires thought and precision. Not over bolted or squeezed like may Boulder Canyon sport routes. I look forward to losing weight and trying to lead. Mar 27, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack."
For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too.

Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where it is and the historical precedent of the climbs surrounding it leave it in a compromised position.

The climbing is all tension and slopers. Mid-5.11 sounds about right. I don't think 11a nor 11d. Oct 15, 2011
Peter Yakovchuk
Tempe, AZ
Peter Yakovchuk   Tempe, AZ
It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder. Sep 13, 2011
kirkadirka
Boulder
 
kirkadirka   Boulder
 
I agree, super fun line that definitely adds to Castle Rock. If it were only a toprope line, I never would have been interested in it. May 26, 2011
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11
Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet.

IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here. Mar 13, 2010
Did not get a chance to climb this line today but saw it for the 1st time and thought it looked great!! I can't wait to climb it and it looks like it has plenty of room to be a great line on its own. Looks like fun. Nice work!! Jan 31, 2010
Todd Ritter
Lafayette
  5.11b/c
Todd Ritter   Lafayette
  5.11b/c
While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now. Aug 12, 2009
RalphE
Boulder, CO
RalphE   Boulder, CO
I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above.

Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity. Aug 29, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
The actual Headline is the route/project that branches left of Deadline and is probably 5.14. Maybe a renaming of whatever the 5.11 is would be in order? Mar 10, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Has Headline actually been redpointed yet? Dec 14, 2007
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Access issues? what!? in Boulder Canyon? you gotta be kidding. It's Boulder Canyon, land of the bolted cracks!!! Yeah!!! Welcome to Boulder Canyon!!!! Aug 22, 2007
Jimn Seiler
North Platte, NE
Jimn Seiler   North Platte, NE
What is the bolted route directly to the right of Comeback Crack? It goes up maybe 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor to the best of my recollections Jun 25, 2007