Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand P2: Bob D'Antonio & Ron Olsen
Page Views: 2,495 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Great slab climbing on a nicely featured wall.

Pitch 1: 11b/c Climb up and over a small roof (gear) and make a weird move to the first bolt. Crank up a seam past several bolts with dicey moves. At the sixth bolt, make a hard move straight up, and then continue straight up (gear & bolts) the cool slab to a two-bolt anchor. 100 feet.

Crossing the river in high water was the crux for me.

Pitch 2: 5.12a Blonde on Blonde pitch: Bob D'Antonio & Ron Olsen: Crank up a flake and seam past two bolts, make a very hard slab move clipping and moving past the third bolt. Cool climbing past five more bolts leads to a two-bolt anchor.

Rap the route doing two-single rope rappels.

Great route that will only get better with a little more cleaning.

Location

Start about 100 feet right of Country Club Crack at a one-bolt anchor (to keep you and the belayer out of the river). Rap from two two-bolt anchors.

Protection

12 quickdraws plus gear to a purple (0.5) Camalot.

Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
5.12-
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
5.12-
The 12a slab crux on the second pitch can be bypassed by traversing right, moving up to a headwall, and underclinging back left. Fun moves, but not recommended on lead. Done this way, the pitch becomes solid 5.11 with the crux at the second bolt.

Lots of great moves on this pitch, but it needs more cleaning. Jun 26, 2006