Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dallas Jackson and Chuck Merley, 1953
Page Views: 8,597 total · 46/month
Shared By: Tim Stich on May 16, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Despite the poor review this climb gets in the Falcon guide, it is actually a surprisingly fun romp.

Pitch 1 begins as a wide chimney that can be done in a variety of ways. Gear placements are generally good in this section. Climb up and right at the start and negotiate some chockstone boulders in the ramp. Keep climbing once the terrain gets grassy. You will pass the bolts on the left (now chopped) that lead to Cussin' Crack. Eventually a wall will force you to traverse right and out. You'll find a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. This should be practically a full rope length with a 60m. Communication with your belayer will be next to impossible, so have some sort of signaling system worked out ahead of time.

P2 is where the fun starts. Above you will see a crack and a possible way left. Step up and climb left, stemming over the delightfully airy drop off. Then, move up the face and find a slopey ledge. Climb up the ledge and move left, placing only a small cam perhaps as you go. You'll end up on a large ledge that leads to the walk off. Belay in any number of places that allows you to be above the traverse.

The descent is located on the side facing the road. Generally, it trends to the left of the trees you see on the way down. At the short crux downclimbing part, you can elect to rappel from a chain wrapped around a tree.

Protection

Rack up to a #4 Camalot, one set of nuts.

Per Ben Wiz: the anchors have been chopped.

Photos