Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 39.979, -105.455 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 225,765 total · 947/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

81 Total Climbs

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Location: Castle Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5-6 6C+
 56
Standard Bulge
Boulder
V8 7B
 67
The Citadel
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 85
Jackson's Wall
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 185
Cussin' Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 200
Bailey's Overhang
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 223
Curving Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 158
The Black Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 151
Skunk Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 67
By Gully
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 124
Comeback Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 69
Tongo
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 137
Athlete's Feat
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 252
Country Club Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 41
Englishman's Home
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 107
The Gill Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Bulge
 56
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
The Citadel
 67
V8 7B Boulder
Jackson's Wall
 85
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Cussin' Crack
 185
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bailey's Overhang
 200
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Curving Crack
 223
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Black Crack
 158
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Skunk Crack
 151
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
By Gully
 67
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Comeback Crack
 124
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tongo
 69
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Athlete's Feat
 137
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Country Club Crack
 252
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Englishman's Home
 41
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Gill Crack
 107
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
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