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Routes in Castle Rock

Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C R
Aid Roof C1
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13
Athlete's Feat T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Bailey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cage Free V11 8A
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Candelaria's Connection T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Citadel V1 V1 5
Citadel, The V8 7B
Close To the Edge S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curving Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cussin' Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dropout Option T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fallout Zone T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flow, The V8-9 7B+
Free Range V13 8B
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardboiled V11 8A
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight With a Shining Stick A3
Mexican Picnic T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midnight Express V14 8B+
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Nintendo V4 6B
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nobody's Home T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nuclear Winter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One V9 7C
Pass Fail Option T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Replacement Killers, The V11 8A
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

79 Total Climbs

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Location: Castle Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5-6 6C+
 48
Standard Bulge
Boulder
V8 7B
 52
The Citadel
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 74
Jackson's Wall
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 163
Cussin' Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 162
Bailey's Overhang
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 194
Curving Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 138
The Black Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 132
Skunk Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 53
By Gully
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 107
Comeback Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 61
Tongo
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 120
Athlete's Feat
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 226
Country Club Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 39
Englishman's Home
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
The Gill Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Bulge
 48
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
The Citadel
 52
V8 7B Boulder
Jackson's Wall
 74
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Cussin' Crack
 163
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bailey's Overhang
 162
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Curving Crack
 194
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Black Crack
 138
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Skunk Crack
 132
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
By Gully
 53
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Comeback Crack
 107
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tongo
 61
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Athlete's Feat
 120
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Country Club Crack
 226
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Englishman's Home
 39
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Gill Crack
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Because Castle Rock has long been popular for picnicing, I'd say the Forest Service is about fifty years overdue for the installation of outhouses and trashcans, especially compared to the facilities you find on Forest Service land near other Colorado ski areas.

Get with it, Nederland, Boulder, and Eldora Ski Area. It shouldn't just be up to the Forest Service to treat our tourists like valued customers. Sep 12, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
For some reason I seem to remember the city of Boulder has sway over Castle Rock. I remember picnicking there as a very young child with my family and the picnic tables along the creek were all maintained. And I'm certain it was Boulder that did it. In high school we'd leave party's on friday nights and drive up the canyon and bivi where the tables use to be. Great fun. Sep 12, 2008
Rogerlarock
Nedsterdam, Colorado
Rogerlarock   Nedsterdam, Colorado
Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss with chains/rings, 3.5" long. Have fun and be careful out there! Oct 6, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Rick,
You could rap the route on a single rope before, just off to the side. There was a bolted rap already there. Oct 8, 2008
pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
Triple Threat = South Face (aka Jackson's Wall Direct), Country Club, and Athlete's Feet in 1 day. Needed some help from the rope on P2 of CCC and P1 of AF. All clean will be Boulder Canyon dream day. Jun 19, 2010
Found green sling, locker, and figure eight in last Sunday's rainstorm. Jul 18, 2012
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
Best damn crag in BoCan. Jul 7, 2014
Kristian Starheim
Trondheim, Norway
Kristian Starheim   Trondheim, Norway
I climbed West Phase this Monday (14 Jul) all the way to the top and some other routes at the west-part of the crag. I had my Norwegian driver's licence and debit card in the pocket, but now I cannot find it. If anyone finds something like that in the area, please let me know!

(the card is deactivated)

e-mail: kobbenes@yahoo.no Jul 16, 2014
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Found a couple stoppers and draws on a popular route at Castle Rock the other day. If you can identify them, they are yours. Aug 28, 2014
EricR
Nederland
EricR   Nederland
Found a pair of fancy car keys at the base of Country Club today. Give a shout if they are yours. Nov 2, 2014
Found some gear on a 5.6. If you can tell me what it is, I will get it back to you. Jun 26, 2015
Wayne DENSMORE
Superior, CO
Wayne DENSMORE   Superior, CO
Ok, the descent used to be head north to a tree with chains and webbing for a rap. Got there today, and the tree had no chains or webbing on it. We found a tree nearby that had a rap station setup, but was much more awkward. One of the climbers had a nasty tangle with a branch.

What happened to the usual rap point? Haven't seen any discussion here or alternate descent recommendation. I do see a couple rap the route comments for S face descent but would need to know how to find them from the summit. Jul 27, 2015
Sean S.
Thornton, CO
Sean S.   Thornton, CO
The chain seems to have been removed. A few times this season I have left some webbing and a carabiner or quicklinks on the usual rappel tree. I have also been finding rap stations on a smaller tree to skier's left that leads down a more awkward line of descent. When descending the north face, look for the larger tree to skier's right just to the right of some larger blocks. Sep 14, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
We found a psychedelic Chouinard BD chalk bag and an REI chalk bucket Saturday night. Message me or post here if either is yours. Jun 7, 2016
I left a purple Black Diamond nut on the wall. Please contact me if you are able to retrieve it! Aug 8, 2016
One of the three truly magical walls in the Boulder area, along with Redgarden and the Bastille. Sep 8, 2016
Got caught in the storm this afternoon and left a handful of items on West Face. Two slings and two carabiners - one set at the top, one set in the middle notch (made it into three pitches). I also left my shoes at the base and would love to have them back! Relatively new La Sportiva Finales, probably right at the base of the crag. Contact pacspake@gmail.com if found. Jul 21, 2017
Hello! I have a pair of men's Miuras that disappeared during the rain yesterday/last night! I would really like my shoes back. I left them with the other gear when we went for cover during the rain, and when I came back out of the truck, they were gone. Please please let me know if you accidentally grabbed them when packing up! I am leaving in just a few days and would really like my shoes back. Thanks!
- Naomi Aug 10, 2017

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