Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 39.9787, -105.4551
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 324,135 total · 1,205/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 Details

Description

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

86 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5-6 6C+
 78
Standard Bulge
Boulder
V8 7B
 83
The Citadel
Boulder
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 208
Cussin' Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 227
Bailey's Overhang
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 255
Curving Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 182
The Black Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 174
Skunk Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 79
By Gully
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 77
Coffin Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 139
Comeback Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Tongo
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 164
Athlete's Feat
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 72
Storming the Castle
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 286
Country Club Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C
 126
The Gill Crack
Trad, TR, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Bulge
 78
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
The Citadel
 83
V8 7B Boulder
Cussin' Crack
 208
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bailey's Overhang
 227
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Curving Crack
 255
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Black Crack
 182
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Skunk Crack
 174
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
By Gully
 79
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Coffin Crack
 77
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Comeback Crack
 139
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tongo
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Athlete's Feat
 164
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Storming the Castle
 72
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Country Club Crack
 286
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Gill Crack
 126
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C Trad, TR, Boulder
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