Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 39.979, -105.455 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 263,195 total · 1,057/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

83 Total Climbs

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Location: Castle Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5-6 6C+
 63
Standard Bulge
Boulder
V8 7B
 73
The Citadel
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 90
Jackson's Wall
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 196
Cussin' Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 208
Bailey's Overhang
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 234
Curving Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 162
The Black Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 161
Skunk Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 71
By Gully
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 130
Comeback Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 73
Tongo
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 144
Athlete's Feat
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 263
Country Club Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 43
Englishman's Home
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 110
The Gill Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Bulge
 63
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
The Citadel
 73
V8 7B Boulder
Jackson's Wall
 90
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Cussin' Crack
 196
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bailey's Overhang
 208
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Curving Crack
 234
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Black Crack
 162
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Skunk Crack
 161
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
By Gully
 71
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Comeback Crack
 130
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tongo
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Athlete's Feat
 144
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Country Club Crack
 263
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Englishman's Home
 43
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Gill Crack
 110
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
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