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Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 39.9787, -105.4551
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 326,784 total · 1,159/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.

Getting There Suggest change

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!

87 Total Climbs

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Location: Castle Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 42
Acrobatic Overhang
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 84
Standard Bulge
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
 25
The Acro-Aerial
Boulder
V14 8B+
 4
Midnight Express
Boulder
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 210
Cussin' Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 245
Bailey's Overhang
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 264
Curving Crack
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 170
Athlete's Feat
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 302
Country Club Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 46
Englishman's Home
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C
 131
The Gill Crack
Trad, TR, Boulder
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 25
Never a Dull Moment
Trad 4 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 8
Mexican Picnic
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 16
Nobody's Home
Trad
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Deadline
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acrobatic Overhang
 42
V5 6C Boulder
Standard Bulge
 84
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
The Acro-Aerial
 25
V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Midnight Express
 4
V14 8B+ Boulder
Cussin' Crack
 210
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bailey's Overhang
 245
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Curving Crack
 264
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Athlete's Feat
 170
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Country Club Crack
 302
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Englishman's Home
 46
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Gill Crack
 131
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C Trad, TR, Boulder
Never a Dull Moment
 25
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Mexican Picnic
 8
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Nobody's Home
 16
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Deadline
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

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