Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Author Stokes Baker
Page Views: 1,525 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Sep 3, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climb a dihedral with 11 plus-ish climbing to a bolt. Cool liebacking, palming, and smearing with the feet. At the bolt, do a hard press move onto the shelf and work your way left to the corner merging with the route "The Campaigner". Negotiate a quite hard boulder problem with flared, left hand jams and a crimp for the right. Stand up and yer done.

Location

One dihedral right of the Campaigner. Finishing on the Campaigner.

Protection

Small nuts and cams to 1 1/2". One or two quickdraws.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
In 1986, we made the first ascent of this burly little route with a fixed (short Lost Arrow) piton to protect the crux. The piton held several falls. 3 years later, I decided to replace the piton with a bolt for safety. If the piton pulled, there was a very good chance of hitting the ground. The piton came out with a few lights hammer taps. My bolt was at the same height as the piton. Whoever replaced my original bolt, placed their new bolt 6"-7" lower. It is unfortunate, not to have the bolt in the same spot, because you definitely getting above the bolt on the crux.

I used to have this route very wired & climbed on dozens of occasions. Once above the 2nd bulge on "The Campaigner", I continued by underclinging right to a jug flake & a lone bolt that was on "Ground Zero" (an aid line) that became "Crank It". I ended the climb here. I often top-roped Victim Of Circumstance afterwards.

I don't mantel the crux getting onto the sloping shelf. Instead, from the lieback position at the top of the corner, throw the left leg up onto the shelf, & undercling the rounded bulge above.

This is a desperate climb & harder than Victim Of Circumstance (to the right) but much less involved to safely protect. RPs or steel nuts (3-5) are needed & a yellow Alien (red may work too - 0.75"-1" cam) below the bolt. The second bulge or The Campaigner protects with a variety of small gear #5 stopper, small cams & RPs (steel nuts). Mar 20, 2018