Type: Trad, TR
FA: John Gill, mid-1960s
Page Views: 14,942 total · 64/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

To think that John Gill originally climbed this as a boulder problem in the '60s is incredible.

Bring your best tiplock crack technique! Thin tip jams with marginal feet lead up a seam for 30 feet to the anchors of 'Black Crack.' Brute force won't get you up this one, you need to be able to make the best out of some pretty thin jams.

Location

'The Gill Crack' lies just to the right of 'The Black Crack' on the South face of Castle Rock.

Protection

For TR, set up 2 'draws by climbing 'The Black Crack' just to the left. Plenty of nuts are necessary to lead this one....

Photos