Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill, Joe Huggins, & Moe Hershoff, 5/1/2007
Page Views: 779 total · 5/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on May 1, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This climbs a rising traverse on a dike just out of the river. The first pitch can be done during low tide. The name refers to the result of trundling a large block just above the first belay and one just below it.

Pitch 1: There is a fun move at the first bolt. The crux is at the 4th bolt. It can be easier 5 feet right of 4th bolt, but we did not clean it that well.

Pitch 2: Begin just left of the anchor. Short cruxes are encountered at each bolt. The crux is at 5th bolt when the climb steepens. A red Alien may be placed before the 5th bolt. Originally the climb went 25 feet above the current anchor, but that just created rope drag and poor communication.

You can either lower/rappel to the river or traverse right into the woods at the level of the first belay anchor, depending on the water level.

Gets good early morning sun if the rest of Castle Rock is too cold.

Location

Begin 20 feet right of Subterranean Homesick Blues. You can use the first bolt of SHB as a directional belay anchor so the belayer does not get pulled into the water in case of a fall. If the water is too high, the top of the first pitch can be reached by traversing in from the right.

Protection

Pitch 1: 5 bolts to a 2-bolt belay.
Pitch 2: 5 bolts plus optional red Alien to a 2-bolt anchor with chains.

Photos