Connect with Facebook
Routes in Castle Rock
|
Acro-Ace, The V4 6B PG13 |
|
Acro-Aerial Sit V8- 7B PG13 |
|
|
Acro-Aerial, The V7 7A+ PG13 |
|
|
Acrobatic Overhang V5 6C |
|
|
Alien Sex Toy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Altered-Acro V5-6 6C+ PG13 |
|
|
Athlete's Feat T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Atlas Shrugged T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
|
|
Bailey's Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Beetle Bailey S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Big Splash, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Black Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Boot Lead T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Born to be Wild T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
By Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cadaver Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Cage Free V11 8A |
|
|
Campaigner, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Candelaria's Connection T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Circadian Rhythms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Citadel V1 V1 5 |
|
|
Citadel, The V8 7B |
|
|
Close To the Edge S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Coffin Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Comeback Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Country Club Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Curving Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cussin' Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Cussing Fingers Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Deadline T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Deersquatch T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Dropout Option T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
E-Z Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Englishman's Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fallout Zone T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Final Exam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Flow, The V8 7B |
|
|
Free Range V13 8B |
|
|
Gill Crack, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C |
|
|
Gluten Free T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hardboiled V11 8A |
|
|
Headline / Old Aid Roof C1 |
|
|
Hit Hard Tactics V7 7A+ |
|
|
Innocent Victim T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
|
|
Invisible Idiot T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Jackson's Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Jackson's Wall Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Knight With a Shining Stick A3 |
|
|
Left of Acro V0+ 4+ |
|
|
Mexican Picnic T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Midnight Express V14 8B+ |
|
|
Never a Dull Moment T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
|
|
Nintendo V4 6B |
|
|
No Fly Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
|
|
Nobody's Home T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Nuclear Winter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Pass Fail Option T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Queen is Dead, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Rebellion T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Replacement Killers, The V10-11 8A |
|
|
Rope Wars T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Route 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Skunk Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Smokey the Bandit V7-8 7B |
|
|
Softboiled V8 7B |
|
|
South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Standard Bulge V5-6 6C+ |
|
|
Sting, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Stingay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Storming the Castle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Surface Tension (aka Two) V10- 7C+ |
|
|
Times Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Tongo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Tourist Extravagance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Trainspotting V12 8A+ R |
|
|
Viceroy T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b R |
|
|
Victim of Circumstance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Water World T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
West Face, Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Wild Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill, Joe Huggins, & Moe Hershoff, 5/1/2007 |
| Page Views: | 1,262 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Hand on May 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This climbs a rising traverse on a dike just out of the river. The first pitch can be done during low tide. The name refers to the result of trundling a large block just above the first belay and one just below it.
Pitch 1: There is a fun move at the first bolt. The crux is at the 4th bolt. It can be easier 5 feet right of 4th bolt, but we did not clean it that well.
Pitch 2: Begin just left of the anchor. Short cruxes are encountered at each bolt. The crux is at 5th bolt when the climb steepens. A red Alien may be placed before the 5th bolt. Originally the climb went 25 feet above the current anchor, but that just created rope drag and poor communication.
You can either lower/rappel to the river or traverse right into the woods at the level of the first belay anchor, depending on the water level.
Gets good early morning sun if the rest of Castle Rock is too cold.
Pitch 1: There is a fun move at the first bolt. The crux is at the 4th bolt. It can be easier 5 feet right of 4th bolt, but we did not clean it that well.
Pitch 2: Begin just left of the anchor. Short cruxes are encountered at each bolt. The crux is at 5th bolt when the climb steepens. A red Alien may be placed before the 5th bolt. Originally the climb went 25 feet above the current anchor, but that just created rope drag and poor communication.
You can either lower/rappel to the river or traverse right into the woods at the level of the first belay anchor, depending on the water level.
Gets good early morning sun if the rest of Castle Rock is too cold.
Location
Begin 20 feet right of Subterranean Homesick Blues. You can use the first bolt of SHB as a directional belay anchor so the belayer does not get pulled into the water in case of a fall. If the water is too high, the top of the first pitch can be reached by traversing in from the right.
4 Comments