Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Josh Wharton, Michael Barnthouse, Jed Wareham-Morris
Page Views: 570 total · 35/month
Shared By: j wharton on May 13, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

Begin up the Horan 5.12 on the far left side of the crag. After some intro slabbing, traverse hard right at the 3rd bolt to a hanging arete and a tricky exit slab. There is lots of fun, interesting climbing on this one, especially by Boulder Canyon standards.

There is a fixed draw on the 5th bolt to help with a difficult clip.

It's obviously possible to escape onto the 5.11 to the left at the last bolt, but the climb is intended to go straight up and slightly right at the last bolt. This adds another quality, difficult section.

Location

Located on the secluded, and rarely visited "Wild West" sector of Castle Rock. Approach as for the Castle Rock summit scramble on the north side of the formation, but instead of heading up the scramble, drop down and curve around on ledges to the northeast corner of Castle Rock. There are about ten routes in this area from 5.11 to 5.12+, and one project the looks worthwhile with some reworking. See the excellent Weidner and Haas Boulder Canyon guidebook for details.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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