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Areas in Escalante Canyon

Bikini Buttress Area 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Cabin Wall 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Escalante Canyon Upper Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Interiors Wall Area 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Pot Holes Area, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Zappa Wall 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 27


Escalante Canyon is Colorado's version of Indian Creek, the way it used to be. The rock isn't as extensive or solid, but the climbs are sweet.

The rock is sandstone, similar to that in Colorado National Monument which is only about 25 miles away. Approaches are short and crowds are minimal. There is climbing on both sides of the canyon but most of the routes are on the south-facing side. Some areas are on private property. The ranch owner has been open to climbing so long as there are not large groups. When in doubt, ask one of the ranch hands.

The only published guide to the area is in Eric Bjornstad's original Desert Rock Book which is out of print. This underlines the fact that the area has great history that precedes many of the bolting ethics in play today that have taken areas such as Indian Creek by storm.

Many of the routes and/or pitches here do not have bolted anchors. In most cases, this was a conscious decision by the first ascentionists to leave no trace. Please respect the wishes of these pioneers when considering installation of fixed hardware.

If the case arises that the climb seems to hard or unlikely to go to the rim, it is always possible to rap in from the top to retrieve gear to avoid bolting. In many areas, there are evidence of bolting and bolt removal where someone assumed a line was unclimbed and set anchors where in fact there were anchors a short distance higher and out of view.

It should be stressed that these are crack climbs, but Escalante is not Indian Creek. Please respect the history of the area.


There are many different areas to camp in the canyon. Please do not camp at the public pullout for The Potholes. A few of the main locations are on the left if going up canyon at mileage of 5 and 5.5 from the Cabin at Cabin wall. Take heed to the private property signs. Most camping areas have a manageable road established and do NOT have no camping allowed signs in front of them.

Getting There

Escalante Canyon is about 20 miles south of Grand Junction. The road is well marked and branches off US 50 between milepost 59 and 60, about 10 miles northwest of Delta. From the junction, it is about 12 miles of dirt road to the climbing area. The road drops down and crosses the Gunnison River and then follows Escalante Creek up to the climbing area. The main area is just after you enter public land, just past the cabin on the right. Free camping is available. There is a popular swimming area just past the climbing. The approaches are 5 - 10 minutes from the road.

A few words about bolting here:

In many cases, it is hard to see the anchors of routes, and before placing bolts, you should climb as close to the rim as possible. Most of the lines have been climbed, especially in the main areas. Please use caution, and when in doubt, rap down from the top to retrieve gear and/or possibly view where the anchors are. Please respect the routes which were done before and avoid placing bolts on established lines.

If bolting must be done, it is important that you camouflage the anchors. Not only is it an eye sore if you do not camo them, but there has been a long history of cliffs being shot up because there were targets on them (shiny bolts day-glow webbing). It's western out there.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Escalante Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TH Crack
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Mod…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Shaft
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right of Lieback
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Key Hole
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Willy's Hand Jive
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
S Crack
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner)
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Curve
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands R…
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rednekk Justus
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump S…
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
TH Crack Cabin Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Interiors Interiors Wall Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Cor… Zappa Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lieback Interiors Wall Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Shaft Interiors Wall Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Right of Lieback Interiors Wall Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Key Hole Interiors Wall Area 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Willy's Hand Jive Cabin Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
S Crack Cabin Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Fred and Barney's Crack Cabin Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) Zappa Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Curve Zappa Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Zombie Woof (submitted as B… Zappa Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Rednekk Justus Cabin Wall 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Passion for Pumping aka Cor… Cabin Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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Anyone happen to find a grey Patagonia bag on the left side of the dirt road into Escalante not far from US 50? The bag was full of climbing gear. Thanks for any help!! Apr 17, 2017
Recently I have received some emails concerning some "new" routes that went up in Escalante Canyon a week or two ago. These aren't new routes. This is what is known as the Mosquito's nest area, which was documented in the original Desert Rock ('88). Any serious desert climber should have been able to figure this out, but.... All of these routes have been climbed numerous times, with the descent being a rap off a tree on the backside.

The main reason that I am bringing this up is that this has been an area of access issues in the past, and the anchors at the top of the cracks aren't going to stay. I recommend going and fetching the hardware, because it will be gone pretty soon. Jan 13, 2017
Kangaru Rat
Under a Rock
Kangaru Rat   Under a Rock
GM is across the creek which is probably a raging torrent right now. Apr 7, 2016
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Could anyone give me info on where the Green Machine Wall is? Thanks in advance! Apr 6, 2016
george wilkey
travelers rest sc
george wilkey   travelers rest sc
It's still a hidden gem! My son and I spent most of last summer climbing there and rarely did we see other climbers. Hard to believe in a place that sports such excellent routes. I have but one gripe; it seems that half the routes are named "unknown". Could someone name these things? I don't care if Chuck names them all, it's very difficult to keep them straight when they're all called the same thing. May 19, 2013
James Hulett
Boulder, Colorado
James Hulett   Boulder, Colorado
My father, John Hulett, used to climb FAs a lot with Chuck Grossman in this area. I know for sure the route "Boot Camp" was the work of John Hulett, too. Next trip I take there w/ him I'll be sure to have him clarify some routes. He said that Grossman even did a FA before his wedding in the canyon. Such a hidden gem Escalante must have been back in the '80s. John says no addition of bolts on existing trad routes. May 31, 2012
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Adam Brink: I have posted info about camping, see above. Enjoy! Mar 14, 2011
Just to change the convo from Ethics, I have climbed the Interiors mostly today. I hit up the Cabin Wall, be prepared to be humbled, but the routes are dope. Mar 2, 2011
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
What is the closest camping to the climbing? Thanks! Feb 8, 2011
I was just wondering about climbing here in the winter months or is it more snowy than it's worth? I am sure it gets lots of sun but not sure how loose and nasty the approaches are or rock fall from freezing and thawing rock? Nov 29, 2010
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
There is a section guide about Escalante Canyon in the new Falcon Colorado Climbing book. Sep 8, 2010
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
A good way to make a camouflage anchor is to use rustable chain, not the plated stuff. After it rusts it is permanently the color of the rock, which is better than paint that eventually flakes away. The right chain can be hard to find though – my current source is Lowe's. The new chain has manufacturing oil residue which retards the rusting process, but this can be easily removed in a dish washer. Then toss it on the ground for a couple of months and it is ready to use. It may not last 100 years like the plated stuff, but the links are thick and 20 to 50 years is likely in the arid desert environment. Also, please use screw links (with paint) rather than the poundable closure monkey rings – they are more expensive but can be removed for anchor maintenance if necessary in the future. The use of rustable chain may not be appropriate for some rock types such as granite or limestone since it could stain the rock, but it is great for desert sandstone. Note that the red of the sandstone comes from naturally occurring iron in the rock, so a color match with rust is expected.
Edit/addition: Direct rap colored hangers by Metolius are also unobtrusive and don't require chains. Nov 14, 2009
That's a REALLY good point, Chad. Using anchors for target practice has long been an Escalante tradition. Painting the anchors a brownish color, as well as putting them in more discrete areas is pretty key here. Nov 11, 2009
ChadARobinson   Gunnison
I go to Escalante almost once a week in spring and fall to beat the crap out of myself and had noticed the shiny new chains. FA controversy aside (I defer to those with more knowledge), at the very least anyone putting up new/replacement gear should take the time to do some camouflaging. Sadly, in several cases the shiny chains have made convenient targets for some folks with more ammunition than good sense. Obviously, this leads to potentially dangerous anchors and permanently disfigured rock, possibly in a place the anchors should have never been placed. Nov 11, 2009
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Some words have been added to the area's description. Obviously some of the issue is ignorance. This brings up the constant issue of information. Do we then make available information on as many established lines as possible and possibly push the popularity (which is already on the rise). Or do we just rip out bolts and police as much as possible?
-Jesse Zacher Nov 2, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
We always climbed to the rim and never placed a single bolt out there. Same with our big Indian Creek FAs. Chuck has never placed a bolt in over thirty years of climbing. Chuck's getting into shape, watch out bolters! Phil, that's funny about Charles eating these idiots for breakfast. Oct 27, 2009
I think this is an appalling development. I can't believe that real climbers either through ignorance or arrogance would endeavor to diminish the proud tradition of fierce ascents in Escalante. Chuck would eat them for breakfast were he to encounter them. They need to take a good hard look in the mirror and become educated as to the history of the area. There are plenty of obscure choss piles that the weak of head and heart can drag down to there level.
I say hands off the historical areas like Escalante Canyon. Or would you accept adding bolts to Southern Belle so the average Joe could feel safe enough to proceed? Oct 27, 2009
I imagine those anchors will disappear pretty quickly. I can say, without any doubt, that pretty much anything that looks like a line in Escalante has been done, and if it looks like there is the slightest chance that it can go to the rim, it did. Oct 26, 2009
logan johnson
West Copper, Co
logan johnson   West Copper, Co
I have to agree with Allen.
I just witnessed a group from Denver putting in large silver chain anchors. They are all about half way up routes that could for the most part go to the rim. However, one of the leaders seemed uncomfortable with leading wide cracks, so he just got to where he felt comfortable and blasted in a set of anchors.
After evesdropping for a while I discerned that they have been replacing anchors (nice!) and putting up quite a few other routes.
It's too bad that they are not respecting the history of the area or for that matter, camoing their anchors. Oct 25, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I climbed with Chuck a number of times out there and Phil's stories are true. We even named a route the "Blowout Cracks" after the stacked anchors we rappeled off and left fixed for the next day were blown out by the wind leaving the ropes in a pile at the base.

It's sad to hear this area is being developed and bolts are being added. Chuck must have done at least fifty routes and never placed a single bolt or pin. All the routes topped out. Descents were often sketchy to say the least. The overwhelming sense of doom only ended back at the cabin. But even then if Chuck had driven a whole new adventure was awaiting you on the way home. I say leave the bolts at home. Chuck's still alive and kicking as evidence that real adventure climbing in the four corners region can be survived. Apr 19, 2006
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
Over the last few years, anchors have appeared below the top of previously established climbs. The parties adding the anchors were probably not aware of the existing route status due to the dearth of readily available information, and as such this is somewhat understandable. However, higher anchors are visible and some information has been published in the original "Desert Rock" guide by Bjornstad, which could have been used to clarify the status of the routes noted. These climbs do not end when the crack gets wide!

Although information has not been published, there has been extensive exploration and climbing in the canyon. I have been surprised on numerous occasions to find evidence of previous ascents even in remote and obscure locations, such as a sling around a chockstone or a tree, a bolt anchor, stray gear, or simply rope grooves in the rock.

The majority of the climbs do not have plaques. Many of the lines top out, sometimes with a nearby tree for a rappel anchor and sometimes not. For the climbs that do not top out, there has been an effort to make the anchors unobtrusive, and they blend in well.

In summary, please be conservative in anchor placement, and assume the line has been done when in doubt. Also, please respect the historic precedent for the routes and avoid adding intermediate anchors. Apr 19, 2006
All of the routes in the Interiors area seem to have good rap stations on them. NOLS uses this area - maybe they are the ones keeping the anchors in good shape. Jan 30, 2006
Jess Wegert
Durango, CO
Jess Wegert   Durango, CO
Is there any information about decents for routes with-in Escalante Canyon? Rap anchors, slung naturals, anything thanks Jan 26, 2006
Thanks for sharing this information. I certainly would like to give credit to first ascentionists and use their route names. I added this area hoping that others would come in and contribute more routes for me to climb - all very selfish! There are hundreds of route in this canyon and it would be nice to have at least a few described here.

John Jan 23, 2006
To the best of my knowledge, the earliest "modern" climbing in Escalante Canyon was done by Rusty Baylie and partners. The route called Easy Crack was done in the Seventies by Rusty and Jenny Goldberg. I believe they called it Pony Express. The route called Cave Route was put up by Chuck Grossman in the Eighties and he named it Interiors. Chuck really helped in establishing Escalante Canyon. In fact, he put it on the map. In the days before camming units and sticky-rubbered shoes, Chuck would push the envelope on the cracks in Escalante Canyon. Leading to the end of his rope with long run outs and minimal pro he would set up anchors by stacking tube chocks, hexes, and Forrest Titons. On occasion, these ad lib anchors would fail once the rap [ropes] got pulled. Chuck would drag any willing or unwitting partners out to what must have seemed to be his own private climbing playground. More than one "wanted to be" would return from an Escalante adventure with Chuck wide eyed and shaken with horrific stories of their own epic experience just trying to follow on top rope what Chuck had just sent. Jan 22, 2006

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