Escalante Canyon Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 5,291 ft | 1,613 m |
| GPS: |
38.68025, -108.31227 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 361,262 total · 1,462/month | |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Jan 21, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Previously: update: per Nolan Robertson: the land was not public yet. It was a transitional phase, being owned by a conservation group leased back to the ranch. Once the lease is completed, it will be public again. Until then, anyone going up to Cabin wall is trespassing. Please be patient, land ownership transitions take time. Anyone is more than welcome to reach out to me for regular progress reports, otherwise, Cabin Wall should be avoided until the situation is completely resolved.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
RAIN, WET ROCK: the sandstone in Escalante Canyon is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Gear placement in wet sandstone also poses a safety concern. Please wait for the rock to dry prior to climbing.
Escalante Canyon is Colorado's version of Indian Creek, the way it used to be. The rock isn't as extensive or solid, but the climbs are sweet.
The rock is sandstone, similar to that in Colorado National Monument, which is only about 25 miles away. The approaches are short, and the crowds are minimal. There is climbing on both sides of the canyon, but most of the routes are on the south-facing side. Some areas are on private property. The ranch owner has been open to climbing so long as there are not large groups. When in doubt, ask one of the ranch hands.
The only published guide to the area is in Eric Bjornstad's original Desert Rock guidebook which is out of print. This underlines the fact that the area has great history that precedes many of the bolting ethics in play today that have taken areas such as Indian Creek by storm.
Many of the routes and/or pitches here do not have bolted anchors. In most cases, this was a conscious decision by the first ascentionists to leave no trace. Please respect the wishes of these pioneers when considering installation of fixed hardware.
If the case arises that the climb seems to hard or unlikely to go to the rim, it is always possible to rap in from the top to retrieve gear to avoid bolting. In many areas, there are evidence of bolting and bolt removal where someone assumed a line was unclimbed and set anchors where in fact there were anchors a short distance higher and out of view.
It should be stressed that these are crack climbs, but Escalante is not Indian Creek. Please respect the history of the area.
CAMPING:
There are many different areas to camp in the canyon. Please do not camp at the public pullout for The Potholes. A few of the main locations are on the left if going up canyon at mileage of 5 and 5.5 from the Cabin at Cabin wall. Take heed to the private property signs. Most camping areas have a manageable road established and do NOT have no camping allowed signs in front of them.
Getting There
Escalante Canyon is about 20 miles south of Grand Junction. The road is well marked and branches off US 50 between milepost 59 and 60, about 10 miles northwest of Delta. From the junction, it is about 12 miles of dirt road to the climbing area. The road drops down and crosses the Gunnison River and then follows Escalante Creek up to the climbing area. The main area is just after you enter public land, just past the cabin on the right. Free camping is available. There is a popular swimming area just past the climbing. The approaches are 5 - 10 minutes from the road.
A few words about bolting here:
In many cases, it is hard to see the anchors of routes, and before placing bolts, you should climb as close to the rim as possible. Most of the lines have been climbed, especially in the main areas. Please use caution, and when in doubt, rap down from the top to retrieve gear and/or possibly view where the anchors are. Please respect the routes which were done before and avoid placing bolts on established lines.
If bolting must be done, it is important that you camouflage the anchors. Not only is it an eye sore if you do not camo them, but there has been a long history of cliffs being shot up because there were targets on them (shiny bolts day-glow webbing). It's western out there.
The Western Colorado Climbers Coalition announcement
The Western Colorado Climbers Coalition (WCCC) is excited to announce that public access to Cabin Wall and The Island in Escalante Canyon is now OPEN! Huge thanks to everyone who helped make this possible. As we head back to these beloved crags, please keep the following in mind so we can maintain continued access and protect this incredible place:
1. Practice Leave No Trace
Help us take care of Escalante Canyon by:
- Staying on designated trails,
- Using the provided pit toilets,
- Packing out all human waste from campsites and crags,
- Avoiding climbing on sandstone for at least 24-48 hours after any precipitation to prevent damage and allow the rock to dry.
2. Respect Private Property
Please be mindful of no‑trespassing areas, particularly agricultural land near the access points. Remember to drive slowly in and out of the canyon since speeding has been a recurring concern.
3. Watch for Seasonal Raptor Closures
Some walls in the canyon may be subject to raptor nesting closures beginning in March. Environmental assessments are conducted every year and updates will be posted. Thanks for giving wildlife the space it needs.
We know everyone is fired up to get back out there and we are too! Thank you for being responsible stewards of this special climbing area. Climb safe, tread lightly, and have a blast!
Classic Climbing Routes at Escalante Canyon
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