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Routes in South Face
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3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beekeeper's Apprentice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bellflower, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bladerunner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blownout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blownout (to 1st anchor) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bluebird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Boardwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cloud Nine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Double, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Dod's Dastardly Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire & Ice T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight Time T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Circus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Free for All T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Ground Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jensen's Ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Wing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Local Access Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Maiden's Escape, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Country T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Pink Panther, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Gull T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rockmaster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roll On Columbia T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Rookie Nookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face | 2827 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stardust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Steppenwolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tennessee Walker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uprising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whit's Wall T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Winter Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 45.6268, -122.01974 |
| FA: | Joseph Healy |
| Page Views: | 2,317 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Billcoe on Jan 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Jim Opdycke had sent Joseph up into the vertical wilderness looking for "an old pin up there somewhere" thinking there may have been a previous ascent. Joseph had originally boldly led up through the moss and choss belayed by Jim and had lowered off, then came back and finished it ground up to the belay shared with Reasonable Richard and Local Access with Bill Coe. It was one of those full on sun 100 degree days, with sweat rolling every which direction (No chalk of course) so he could retrieve his gear. Then he just kept going up. Bold lead. Joseph came back and did the 2nd ascent lead as well with Bill Coe and Ujahn Davisson in tow, Ujahn took the pictures you see here.
Later learned that there is a strong possibility this was a line which had been cleaned some by Mark Deffenbach 2 years earlier but not done.
The climbing starts easy on the lower slab and gets harder as the wall becomes vertical. The pro gets better as you ascend, however, be good at putting in your own gear as the route has challenging placements although the long runouts become less long as you get higher up.
Location
This is a good first pitch for the upper routes: Blood Sweat and Smears, Flight Time, Flying Circus and Flying Swallow as it ends on the ledge which signifies the start of those routes. The start is just right of Reasonable Richard and Local Access about 30 feet right of the 3rd tunnel. Rap with a single 60 meter and watch the ends of your rope, you may need to downclimb a few feet.
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