South East Corner
Avg: 3.1 from 113 votes
Routes in South Face
|3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13|
|South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R|
|Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||John Orenshall, Gene Todd 1954|
|Page Views:||16,598 total, 116/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Feb 26, 2006|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
All faces of Beacon Rock with the exception of “Stone Soup” on the northwest face are closed for all technical rock climbing effective Feb. 1, 2017, due to peregrine falcon nesting season. Climbers must rappel down ";Stone Soup"; when finished, no walk-off access is currently available. The climber's trail also is closed for all access effective Feb. 1, 2017. The approximate date of when climbing will reopen is around the middle of July 2017 for select areas. The east face is permanently closed for the protection of rare species, cultural and historical resources. The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round.
DescriptionAiry views of the Columbia gorge, good rock, and superb climbing make this route a classic and THE most popular route at Beacon Rock. Almost every climbable weekend will see ascents.
Finding the start of this route can be a challenge. Go down the climbers trail on the East side of Beacon. After turning the corner watch for a rise in terrain. Just past the rise the route starts in a right angling corner.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb up the right leaning corner and then up a crack to a nice ledge. Be careful pulling onto the ledge as there may be loose rocks. Belay from a bolted anchor
Pitch 2: 5.2 Traverse down a few feet and then straight right for a pitch. Belay at bolted anchors. Pro is sparse but the climbing is easy. Most people link pitch one and two.
P3: Pull the steep mantle immediately up and left of the anchor and continue up the ramp above (or the right-leaning, right-facing dihedral just left of the ramp) until you have pulled a couple of vertical moves past some old pins. Make a short traverse to your right, around the corner, to a hand crack, and then head straight up for a short distance to the large belay ledge with tree. 30m.
P4: Ascend the obvious left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp up and left from the belay. Build a trad anchor shortly after you gain the narrow dirty ledge (the bolted anchor that the route description mentions is the top of "Jill's Thrill", and is much further to the left and around a corner along this ledge. I can't imagine why anyone would want to belay from here if continuing to the top). 40m.
P5: Walk left along the dirty ledge for a very short distance then turn right up a wide, shallow gully that is littered with dirt and loose rock. The short offwidth is at the top, and slightly to the right, of this gully. I personally prefer to build an anchor here at the top of the offwidth. < 30m.
P6: Head up and right along the low-angle ramp, and clip the ancient bolt off to your left at the top (for the rope) before walking right along a ledge a short distance and around a bit of a corner. Go straight up the face above you and build an anchor on the large ledge at the top. aprox 40m.
P7: Go up and left from the ledge, taking the line of least resistance up the low-angle ridge/spine of clean rock. Belay from a large ledge just before going into the trees. aprox 30m. Unrope and walk up the trail through the trees to the hikers trail.