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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Orenshall, Gene Todd 1954
Page Views: 16,690 total, 116/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Airy views of the Columbia gorge, good rock, and superb climbing make this route a classic and THE most popular route at Beacon Rock. Almost every climbable weekend will see ascents.

Finding the start of this route can be a challenge. Go down the climbers trail on the East side of Beacon. After turning the corner watch for a rise in terrain. Just past the rise the route starts in a right angling corner.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb up the right leaning corner and then up a crack to a nice ledge. Be careful pulling onto the ledge as there may be loose rocks. Belay from a bolted anchor

Pitch 2: 5.2 Traverse down a few feet and then straight right for a pitch. Belay at bolted anchors. Pro is sparse but the climbing is easy. Most people link pitch one and two.

P3: Pull the steep mantle immediately up and left of the anchor and continue up the ramp above (or the right-leaning, right-facing dihedral just left of the ramp) until you have pulled a couple of vertical moves past some old pins. Make a short traverse to your right, around the corner, to a hand crack, and then head straight up for a short distance to the large belay ledge with tree. 30m.

P4: Ascend the obvious left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp up and left from the belay. Build a trad anchor shortly after you gain the narrow dirty ledge (the bolted anchor that the route description mentions is the top of "Jill's Thrill", and is much further to the left and around a corner along this ledge. I can't imagine why anyone would want to belay from here if continuing to the top). 40m.

P5: Walk left along the dirty ledge for a very short distance then turn right up a wide, shallow gully that is littered with dirt and loose rock. The short offwidth is at the top, and slightly to the right, of this gully. I personally prefer to build an anchor here at the top of the offwidth. < 30m.

P6: Head up and right along the low-angle ramp, and clip the ancient bolt off to your left at the top (for the rope) before walking right along a ledge a short distance and around a bit of a corner. Go straight up the face above you and build an anchor on the large ledge at the top. aprox 40m.

P7: Go up and left from the ledge, taking the line of least resistance up the low-angle ridge/spine of clean rock. Belay from a large ledge just before going into the trees. aprox 30m. Unrope and walk up the trail through the trees to the hikers trail.

Protection

A regular rack of nuts and cams up to 3"

Carson Baker
Portland, OR
  5.7
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
  5.7
P3 is tricky for some. Off the bolted belay you want to head almost straight up (marginal pro) and pull a juggy roof to place your first good gear. Then stay on the well-protectable slab as you continue upwards rather than jamming the right-facing corner. It's okay to jam, but the moves are slightly harder and you'll contend with more rope drag.

Then, towards the top of pitch 3, don't get sucked off-route. There is a fixed piton and a left-leaning, right-facing corner crack with tempting hand jams, but it's not the easy way to go. I've seen several leaders start heading straight up this corner rather than shifting right onto the SE arête. I don't know how hard that section of climbing is, but I've seen one person fall there and another get seriously spooked. Jun 21, 2017
oretro
  5.7+
oretro  
  5.7+
As peachy spohn mentioned, for P6, you can just keep heading right after the ramp. As you go up and right, it will feel a smidge exposed on slab, but the moves are well protectable. Also, you will find a set of bolts around the corner, which could save you some anchor building time.
A 60m rope felt like the perfect length on this route. Aug 4, 2016
Kyle Terry  
 
Bring a lot of alpine draws. like 60 and 120 runners. I only brought 3 and the drag from quick draws on the cams was intense... oops :^) Sep 16, 2016
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Yes Veraun a 50m rope will work. However, using a 50m will mean you have to find intermediate belays for the 4th and 5th pitches described above. Jul 6, 2015
Can anyone out there give pitch lengths? Can I climb this with 50m rope? Jul 4, 2015
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.6
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.6
Rescued a sling and biner someone bailed off from tree ledge on New Years Day. Email me if it's yours. Jan 5, 2015
Keith Stansbury
Hockinson, Washington
Keith Stansbury   Hockinson, Washington
This is a great climb for newer climbers just starting on multi-pitch routes. I just took a new climber - he's "climbed" in gyms, and has bouldered, but never lead or placed pro - up last weekend.

It is worth repeating that the 3rd pitch has some really fine spots: the crux move (it truly is only 5.7, maybe plus at a stretch, and just a move at that), and my favorite the sloping ramp just past the crux. I highly recommend to remember to chill out a bit when in the middle of that ramp. For new climbers, it provides a good feeling of exposure, yet there are great little ledges where you can just stand there for awhile and thoroughly enjoy the stance and view. In fact, although it is not done, it might be cool to set up a belay right there on that ramp just for the fun of it!

That 3rd pitch is also instructional in terms of proper pro placement and use of runners to alleviate potential rope drag, which can be significant if not considered there.

Time: <4 hours including walk in and trail back to car, provided you know the route. We were up and back to the car in 3 hours on a sunny day. Sep 4, 2012
JGHarrison harrison
Reno, NV
 
JGHarrison harrison   Reno, NV
 
I didnt see any anchors at the top of pitch 5. Perhaps we missed them, however there are ample opportunities to sling a tree or build an anchor. A handfull of random pins can be found on the face. If you think you are off-route on the higher pitches look for the pruned trees. Fun climb. Nov 3, 2011
Derrick Peppers
everywhere
 
Derrick Peppers   everywhere
 
I would agree with Peter F. The 1st and third were the only great parts to the route, however, what a third pitch it was. The whole climb is very worth it if only for that third pitch. Oct 2, 2010
Ebb Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
 
Ebb Ebbing   Vancouver, WA
 
Quite an adventure! This is a very popular route (we climbed on a Friday and were the 2nd of 5 parties to climb all or part of this route). The "company" was helpful though for our first time up this route, as it provided for some valuable "live beta" from the "veterans."

I've read in some guide books that the published ratings for Beacon Rock are a bit "stiff" and I would agree here. At least for a personal first ascent, consider adding a notch to any of the published ratings (i.e. the first pitch felt more like 5.7, the third pitch felt more like 5.8 or even higher if you choose the wrong path to get over the bulge at the start, the fourth through sixth pitches all have some moves that could argueably go for 5.6 - 5.7, etc.)

Expect to commit a FULL day to this climb due to length, crowds and for a first time ascent, route finding. Jul 31, 2010
Reed Fee
White Salmon WA
Reed Fee   White Salmon WA
The "bolt" on the 6th pitch is an ancient rusty 3/16 thing with a sheet metal hanger. This pitch is essentially a free solo but barely 5.3. Also the the fixed pin and bolt variation on the final pitch is the final pitch for Young Warriors as well. Many colorful characters regularly do solo laps on this route. If your thinking of doing with your 5 friends go sport climbing instead. Besides the third pitch the final ridge is my favorite. Aug 14, 2009
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.7
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.7
I found the 1st and 3rd pitches to be enjoyable, but the rest was totally forgettable. Oct 20, 2008
smithygreg
Portland,OR
 
smithygreg   Portland,OR
 
I would suggest having some kind of rope signals, or two way radios if you are doing this climb. It was almost inmpossible to communicate with the leader when we did this between the wind and trains rolling by... I suppose that is good advice for any climb that traverses a lot like this one... Oct 20, 2008
peachy spohn  
 
Pitch 5: To add to the authors good description; there is a stance at the V-notch to set up a belay, which can be the belay for the 4th pitch. Above this spot is a small pine tree that you will want to aim for - just behind it is the off-width that you will use to get up to the long, right leaning ramp. At the top of the off-width and at the start of the ramp you can set up the belay, the 5th overall.

Start the 6th pitch be heading up right on the ramp. There is a bolt about 60 feet up. Clip it and continue right around a corner and onto an exposed and cool face that can be climbed up with bolts or all the way around to the right. (As the author stated, there are other options besides this to gain the summit).

Easy climbing, but loose rock to the top. Jul 17, 2008