South East Corner
Avg: 3.1 from 115 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||John Orenshall, Gene Todd 1954|
|Page Views:||17,149 total · 117/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Feb 26, 2006|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details
The south face of Beacon Rock is closed for all technical rock climbing every year from Feb. 1 - July 15 due to peregrine falcon nesting. The south side climber's access trail also is closed for all access during this time.
DescriptionAiry views of the Columbia gorge, good rock, and superb climbing make this route a classic and THE most popular route at Beacon Rock. Almost every climbable weekend will see ascents.
Finding the start of this route can be a challenge. Go down the climbers trail on the East side of Beacon. After turning the corner watch for a rise in terrain. Just past the rise the route starts in a right angling corner.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb up the right leaning corner and then up a crack to a nice ledge. Be careful pulling onto the ledge as there may be loose rocks. Belay from a bolted anchor
Pitch 2: 5.2 Traverse down a few feet and then straight right for a pitch. Belay at bolted anchors. Pro is sparse but the climbing is easy. Most people link pitch one and two.
P3: Pull the steep mantle immediately up and left of the anchor and continue up the ramp above (or the right-leaning, right-facing dihedral just left of the ramp) until you have pulled a couple of vertical moves past some old pins. Make a short traverse to your right, around the corner, to a hand crack, and then head straight up for a short distance to the large belay ledge with tree. 30m.
P4: Ascend the obvious left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp up and left from the belay. Build a trad anchor shortly after you gain the narrow dirty ledge (the bolted anchor that the route description mentions is the top of "Jill's Thrill", and is much further to the left and around a corner along this ledge. I can't imagine why anyone would want to belay from here if continuing to the top). 40m.
P5: Walk left along the dirty ledge for a very short distance then turn right up a wide, shallow gully that is littered with dirt and loose rock. The short offwidth is at the top, and slightly to the right, of this gully. I personally prefer to build an anchor here at the top of the offwidth. < 30m.
P6: Head up and right along the low-angle ramp, and clip the ancient bolt off to your left at the top (for the rope) before walking right along a ledge a short distance and around a bit of a corner. Go straight up the face above you and build an anchor on the large ledge at the top. aprox 40m.
P7: Go up and left from the ledge, taking the line of least resistance up the low-angle ridge/spine of clean rock. Belay from a large ledge just before going into the trees. aprox 30m. Unrope and walk up the trail through the trees to the hikers trail.