South East Corner
Avg: 3.1 from 114 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||John Orenshall, Gene Todd 1954|
|Page Views:||16,778 total · 116/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Feb 26, 2006|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
All faces of Beacon Rock with the exception of “Stone Soup” on the northwest face are closed for all technical rock climbing effective Feb. 1, 2017, due to peregrine falcon nesting season. Climbers must rappel down ";Stone Soup"; when finished, no walk-off access is currently available. The climber's trail also is closed for all access effective Feb. 1, 2017. The approximate date of when climbing will reopen is around the middle of July 2017 for select areas. The east face is permanently closed for the protection of rare species, cultural and historical resources. The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round.
DescriptionAiry views of the Columbia gorge, good rock, and superb climbing make this route a classic and THE most popular route at Beacon Rock. Almost every climbable weekend will see ascents.
Finding the start of this route can be a challenge. Go down the climbers trail on the East side of Beacon. After turning the corner watch for a rise in terrain. Just past the rise the route starts in a right angling corner.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb up the right leaning corner and then up a crack to a nice ledge. Be careful pulling onto the ledge as there may be loose rocks. Belay from a bolted anchor
Pitch 2: 5.2 Traverse down a few feet and then straight right for a pitch. Belay at bolted anchors. Pro is sparse but the climbing is easy. Most people link pitch one and two.
P3: Pull the steep mantle immediately up and left of the anchor and continue up the ramp above (or the right-leaning, right-facing dihedral just left of the ramp) until you have pulled a couple of vertical moves past some old pins. Make a short traverse to your right, around the corner, to a hand crack, and then head straight up for a short distance to the large belay ledge with tree. 30m.
P4: Ascend the obvious left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp up and left from the belay. Build a trad anchor shortly after you gain the narrow dirty ledge (the bolted anchor that the route description mentions is the top of "Jill's Thrill", and is much further to the left and around a corner along this ledge. I can't imagine why anyone would want to belay from here if continuing to the top). 40m.
P5: Walk left along the dirty ledge for a very short distance then turn right up a wide, shallow gully that is littered with dirt and loose rock. The short offwidth is at the top, and slightly to the right, of this gully. I personally prefer to build an anchor here at the top of the offwidth. < 30m.
P6: Head up and right along the low-angle ramp, and clip the ancient bolt off to your left at the top (for the rope) before walking right along a ledge a short distance and around a bit of a corner. Go straight up the face above you and build an anchor on the large ledge at the top. aprox 40m.
P7: Go up and left from the ledge, taking the line of least resistance up the low-angle ridge/spine of clean rock. Belay from a large ledge just before going into the trees. aprox 30m. Unrope and walk up the trail through the trees to the hikers trail.