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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Bob McGowen
Page Views: 3,917 total, 29/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Nov 15, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Windsurfer is a fun and interesting classic corner with several small roof features. True to the climbing at Beacon, the climb requires innovative moves and fun positioning. It is easy to get tunnel vision on this route but looking for stems makes the route much easier. A real McGowen classic.

Location

The route is located on the left side of the south wall. Just before a large overhung section of poorer rock and loose talus windsurfer climbs an obvious left facing corner to a ledge.

Caution when lowering -your 60m rope will barely make it!!!!!

Protection

Standard rack to 3.5 inches (optional larger pieces)
Bolted anchors on ledge at top.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10b
Perhaps no move harder than 10a but SUSTAINED! Jul 22, 2017
George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
Some of the most interesting stemming I have yet to do at Beacon. Great sensation of exposure near the top as well. Recommended rack: Set of nuts, cams .3-1, doubles of 2 and triples of 3 (or doubles of 3 and a 4). If your legs are strong, you'll have the patience to place nuts, for which there are many great constrictions. Otherwise, bring doubles in .2-.3 cams. Dump the 2's and larger before the first roof. Oct 10, 2015
FA by Bob McGown in the mid 1980s. Was originally rated 5.10a which was a bit of a sandbag even for Beacon Rock. Sep 21, 2013
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
i think the thing that makes it feel a little harder is that the rock quality isn't that great in several places. i remember not really wanting to fall on it. also, it was hotter than the hinges of hell and humid. great climbing, but if a friend was breaking into the grade i wouldn't recommend it. Aug 8, 2011
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
  5.10b
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
  5.10b
Super classic route, but I think for Beacon, Yosemite and Broughton this is a rather soft 10b, but maybe I'm just extra good at stemming??? Aug 8, 2011
Bennett
Southern California
Bennett   Southern California
Solid for the grade. Done a lot of 10b routes in Yosemite Valley and Windsurfer is no give away, definitely harder and more sustained than your average 10b, but a must do with solid, if a little techy to place at times, pro (crack can be a little flaring or open up in the back)... I would give 5 stars... placed a 4 and 5 camalot on here but not mandatory, could take a third three and not be too run... Aug 1, 2011
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10b
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10b
Definitely bring extra small pieces. Great route. Aug 7, 2009