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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blownout T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Menopause T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jim Yoder 1990
Page Views: 697 total · 8/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Sep 11, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

This route needs a better anchor, yes. It needs one extra bolt, hence the current pg-13 grade. But, Old Warriors Never Dies offers the 5.12 climber the chance to get familiar with Beacon Rock and the movement you often find there. The moves are fun, you are often hugging the pillar, and balance is key. I just cleaned it yesterday, but it may need a little extra dusting. All in all, if it gets done more, it will be a great PDX test piece and is worth it! Sweet!

Location

The bolted pillar just left of "Wrong Gull"

Protection

5 bolts (one is questionable and will be replaced).
Also, there will hopefully be an anchor placed atop the pillar soon. As of now you must traverse left to webbing slung around a rock.

Photos

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Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Yeah, some of the lines are PG-13 and R - doesn't mean they need retro-bolts, though. Sep 14, 2011
peachy spohn
  5.12b
peachy spohn  
  5.12b
I completely agree J. I'm one for running it out and not destroying the history and style of a route. I was simply thinking of adding an anchor and replacing the last bolt (really in need of it) and in doing so hopefully getting people interested in climbing the route and out to Beacon. Of course I'll contact the 1st ascentionist too!

Cheers- Sep 14, 2011

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