Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: 1990s? Bill Coe & partner
Page Views: 1,388 total · 30/month
Shared By: Richard Denker on Sep 17, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces Details

Description

The first pitch makes for a fun little climb. It is an excellent climb as a warm-up or as the last climb of the day. The second pitch is a different story. If the second pitch was cleaned and a few bolts added it would be a recommended climb. Currently I cannot recommend the second pitch unless you are very bold and skilled at mid-5.10 run out. If cleaned it would probability be 5.9/5.10a R. The R rating could be removed with a few bolts.

P1: Simply follow the bolts for 80’ to a bolt anchor. There are 6 bolts and if you want to supplement the bolts with gear, a few small cams and or small to medium nuts would be more then enough.

P2: From the anchor head up and left to a small notch is the ceiling. Climb through the notch and then head straight up, avoiding the loose moss and loose rock to the anchors.

Descent: If descending from the top of the first pitch a single rope rap will get you to the ground. If rapping from the top of the second pitch you will need two ropes or one 70m rope. From the top anchors rap down and to the right to the top of the first pitch Young Warriors. From that anchor it is about a 110’ rap to the ground.

Location

Coming from the parking lot on the main trail, there is a trail that branches off right 10 feet before the dog on leash sign. Take this directly to the base, roughly 25' right of the start of Young Warriors

Protection

Gear: 1st pitch half a dozen quickdraws. The 2nd pitch uses small to medium nuts and cams; do not expect a lot of placements.

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