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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: 1990s? Bill Coe & partner
Page Views: 257 total, 17/month
Shared By: Richard Denker on Sep 17, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The first pitch makes for a fun little climb. It is an excellent climb as a warm-up or as the last climb of the day. The second pitch is a different story. If the second pitch was cleaned and a few bolts added it would be a recommended climb. Currently I cannot recommend the second pitch unless you are very bold and skilled at mid-5.10 run out. If cleaned it would probability be 5.9/5.10a R. The R rating could be removed with a few bolts.

P1: Simply follow the bolts for 80’ to a bolt anchor. There are 6 bolts and if you want to supplement the bolts with gear, a few small cams and or small to medium nuts would be more then enough.

P2: From the anchor head up and left to a small notch is the ceiling. Climb through the notch and then head straight up, avoiding the loose moss and loose rock to the anchors.

Descent: If descending from the top of the first pitch a single rope rap will get you to the ground. If rapping from the top of the second pitch you will need two ropes or one 70m rope. From the top anchors rap down and to the right to the top of the first pitch Young Warriors. From that anchor it is about a 110’ rap to the ground.

Location

Coming from the parking lot on the main trail, there is a trail that branches off right 10 feet before the dog on leash sign. Take this directly to the base, roughly 25' right of the start of Young Warriors

Protection

Gear: 1st pitch half a dozen quickdraws. The 2nd pitch uses small to medium nuts and cams; do not expect a lot of placements.

Photos

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Billcoe  
Thank you for putting it up Richard. The location you give is wrong. "To the left of Young Warriors is a small buttress and to the left of that is the bolt line which is Rhythm Method."

Reverse that direction. It's just around the corner to the RIGHT of Young Warriors @25 feet or so. About 10' to the right of the shallow corner that designates the Boardwalk start. Coming from the parking lot there is a trail that branches off right direct to it 10 feet before the dog on leash sign on the main trail.

I originally led P1 ground up, no bolts, around 1985 with Jim Opdycke. The first go round went up higher and then traversed over to the Boardwalk anchors. The Boardwalk anchors at that time were higher than they are now, consisting of a single hand drilled bolt tied in with a 3/4" angle piton just below the roof. The bolts on Rythem Method came @ 10 years later on the routes 2nd ascent. But that's a whole nother story:-).

P2+ was Josephs project, I say it's in the 5.10 rangeish. Dec 29, 2016