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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Menopause T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joseph Healy, Bill Coe, Karsten Duncan, et.al. FFA-Joseph Healy, Karsten Duncan
Page Views: 2,698 total · 18/month
Shared By: Healyje on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This new route occurred primarily by the vision and dedication of Joseph Healy in 2005. Its an adventurous climb with some serious sections and classic basalt features.

Pitch 1: 5.8 Climb the first pitch of Young Warriors. This pitch contains many bolts and several optional small gear placements low on the pitch.

Pitch 2: 5.9 From the top of pitch 1 of Y.W. climb straight above the slung p1 anchor until you can move right onto short ledge leading to a shallow right-leaning, left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral and the arete formed by it until it turns vertical and then go straight up to a small ledge with bolted anchors.

Pitch 3: 5.11 This crux pitch goes up from the right end of the small ledge and up broad and steep left facing dihedral. Climb the diherdal until you can't free climb any higher and you'll be at a changing corners area. Either aid two moves or and traverse right around arete (crux). This move can be protected by a two medium size cam placed up in the underside of the angled slash going out right. Above the crux continue up and right. Once you reach a good ledge the pitch continues up and left straight up a rough looking face to a ledge and anchor above it. [However, up and right of the first good ledge is another anchor that can be used to bail the route with two ropes which will get you back down to the Boardwalk p1 anchor. This is effectively the last point to bail.]

Pitch 4: 5.10+ Move out right from the anchor up a steep slab and protect with loweballs and a pin to a steep mantle. Clip fixed pin and then climb up under a large roof. Pull roof through the left side slot and climb right and then left above the roof to an anchor on yellow rock in an low angle slab alcove.

Pitch 5: 5.9 Move left around a corner and up diagonally left angling cracks on a face to top out. The crux of this pitch is through an obvious confluence of cracks; at the crux there are three wedged shield shaped rocks which are slightly loose. Carefully use the leftmost rock and move up to the final moves which go slightly right to top out with an interesting twist. Head up to the large 'bonsai' looking tree and belay from there.

Pitch 6 / Descent: At the large bonsai tree you have reached the lower part of the overall high SE Corner ridge ramp. Continue up the ramp which joins with both the SE Face and Young Warriors routes for the final 6th pitch up the upper ramp. At the top of the ramp before the trees unrope. Exit left for about 30' (north, away from the river) and follow switchback trail up the guardrail and tourist trail and take it back down to the parking lot.

[ Note: the large bonsai tree at the top of the route was blown down during a storm in March 2010 and is no longer there. In it's place will be a large 30-40' scar in the lower corner ramp. ]

Protection [Suggest Change]

-1 set of wires (preferrably HB Brass and Alloy Offsets or DMM Alloy Offsets and small regular nuts),
-Double set of cams to #3 Camalot including #2 and #3 Ballnutz,
-quickdraws and long slings
-all anchors are large Metolius hangers
-shoes may be nice for walk-off

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