Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: 1985 Jim Opdycke, Robert McGown, Mark Cartier
Page Views: 2,644 total · 29/month
Shared By: Geoff-cyclewolf on Jul 22, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

43 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details


In a corner up and left of the classic SE Corner route is this gem of a climb. It is probably deserving of 5.8+, and definitely of CLASSIC status.

Climb some fun finger, hand cracks and slab to Snag Ledge. Don't forget to protect your second before traversing right to the anchors!

Links up easily with either Jill's Thrill or SE Corner if you belay at the ledge. Otherwise, step out left for Right Gull or continue up Fear of Flying if you're down for the challenge.


Left of SouthEast Corner, below Fear of Flying. Beacon!


Takes smaller cams, nuts, and gear up to 2 inches


Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
The first few times I did this route I accidentally switched onto the Southeast Corner route. To stay on Little Wing, make sure you look for the finger crack up and left as you near the top of the initial 'pillar' of rock that you're climbing. Once you finish this finger crack you can place a couple pieces and traverse right to the snag ledge belay. Sep 25, 2011
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
This route is short but sweet! To extend the fun, continue up the first pitch of Fear of Flying (10a) or Right Gull (5.7), both easily combined with a single 60m. Aug 24, 2013