Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 762 total · 12/month
Shared By: chanchito 17 on Oct 3, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) Details


Romp up the ridge line on the southern most tip of Beacon rock, left of the arena of terror. Pass one set of anchor bolts, continuing further right and up. P1 is dirty, perhaps climb one of the face routes instead. P2 is money! Step right from a block to an awesome 11- finger crack. The pitch steps right to a hand and pumpy fist crack, ending with a short off width. Full value!

2 old rusty bolts are found on the left at the tip of the pitch. Cracks can be used to make a gear belay instead. A final 10+ hand and finger crack pitch lands you into sandcastle climbing, be wary of loose jenga blocks. End on the trail at a tree.


Far left side of the south face


Double rack to 4". Bumping a single 4 for the Odub is sufficient as well. Replacing the bolts on the top of pitch 2 would be a fine idea. Bolts for the 1st pitch are fresh.


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