The Dirty Double
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FFA: Odin Grano w/ Danielle Hughes august, 1, 2020 FA: Alan Kearney, Les Nugent 74|
|Page Views:||591 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||OG on Aug 1, 2020 · Updates|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
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The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
First climbed at 5.7 A3 in the 70's, the dirty double is the two tiered corner system just right of 'Beekeepers apprentice'. The two pitches are a mixture of technical and burly climbing, and will keep you on your toes while fiddlin in the sometimes sporadic gear. On the crux pitch no move is harder than V4, but the sustained and pumpy nature of the route will surely keep you engaged.
A quintessential Beacon outing!
Pitch one: 11d 35m
Climb the mossy slabs to the base of a detached pillar to the right of the scrub oak tree- Climb the right side of this pillar. Moderate laybacks will take you to a triangle ledge just below a splitter seam. Tech your way though a few pieces of small gear until you reach a good undercling. Reach high, clip the fixed pin (bomber) and cast off into the crux and through to the P1 anchor- 3 equalized pins with rap rings. These will eventually be replaced with bolts, but are bomber for now.
Pitch 2: 12c ish 40m
Stem off the anchor and and clip some more old fixed gear. Pull into a stance below the giant detached block (don't place gear behind this geological time bomb! - two new bolts higher up now protect this section), place a pice (in the corner) and move into the meat of the pitch. Jam, stem and side pull your way up to the first 'overhang'. Cop a rest above, and climb through some pumpy 5.11 climbing before pulling the second 'overhang' and onto the cruxy headwall of the route. A bolted anchor awaits on the grassy ledge above.
Either rap from here or continue on another route of your choice!
Left of Bears , Right of Beekeekeepers. The scrub oak marks the base of the route, ascending the moderate right side of the detached pillar.