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Blood, Sweat, and Smears
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 10
votes
Routes in South Face
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3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beekeeper's Apprentice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bellflower, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bladerunner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blownout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blownout (to 1st anchor) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bluebird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Boardwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cloud Nine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Double, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Dod's Dastardly Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire & Ice T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight Time T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Circus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Free for All T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Ground Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jensen's Ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Wing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Local Access Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Maiden's Escape, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Country T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Pink Panther, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Gull T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rockmaster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roll On Columbia T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Rookie Nookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face | 2827 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stardust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Steppenwolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tennessee Walker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uprising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whit's Wall T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Winter Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| GPS: | 45.6268, -122.01974 |
| FA: | Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 2,574 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Jul 24, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Blood, Sweat, and Smears follows a dihedral with an obvious, small triangular roof. The belay stance for the pitch is down and left from the young tree that is growing near Flying Circus.
Commence up left from the belay, get some tricky gear in, pull up onto the small square ledge, and get your smear on for the next 160 feet. The crux comes about 30-40 feet up, getting up a smooth section of the dihedral and through a small roof. Up higher, you'll have to navigate around a small sapling before hitting a perfect layback splitter to the Big Ledge.
Once on the Big Ledge finish up Dod's Jam or Dastardly Crack.
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has great moves, amazing position, but sadly is quite dirty. If more people climb it and clean it up there is no doubt that it would be a Portland Area CLASSIC, but until it and its approach pitch get cleaner I think its a bit committing.
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