Blood, Sweat, and Smears
Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft|
|FA:||Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 1977|
|Page Views:||921 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||peachy spohn on Jul 24, 2013|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details
The south face of Beacon Rock is closed for all technical rock climbing every year from Feb. 1 - July 15 due to peregrine falcon nesting. The south side climber's access trail also is closed for all access during this time.
DescriptionBlood, Sweat, and Smears follows a dihedral with an obvious, small triangular roof. The belay stance for the pitch is down and left from the young tree that is growing near Flying Circus.
Commence up left from the belay, get some tricky gear in, pull up onto the small square ledge, and get your smear on for the next 160 feet. The crux comes about 30-40 feet up, getting up a smooth section of the dihedral and through a small roof. Up higher, you'll have to navigate around a small sapling before hitting a perfect layback splitter to the Big Ledge.
Once on the Big Ledge finish up Dod's Jam or Dastardly Crack.
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has great moves, amazing position, but sadly is quite dirty. If more people climb it and clean it up there is no doubt that it would be a Portland Area CLASSIC, but until it and its approach pitch get cleaner I think its a bit committing.
LocationJust to the right of the Third Tunnel. To approach Blood, Sweat, and Smears we climbed Reasonable Richard (very mossy and lichen covered, questionable pro, but would be very fun if cleaned).
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has the obvious small triangle roof in its dihedral.