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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 1977
Page Views: 921 total · 17/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 24, 2013 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details

Description

Blood, Sweat, and Smears follows a dihedral with an obvious, small triangular roof. The belay stance for the pitch is down and left from the young tree that is growing near Flying Circus.

Commence up left from the belay, get some tricky gear in, pull up onto the small square ledge, and get your smear on for the next 160 feet. The crux comes about 30-40 feet up, getting up a smooth section of the dihedral and through a small roof. Up higher, you'll have to navigate around a small sapling before hitting a perfect layback splitter to the Big Ledge.

Once on the Big Ledge finish up Dod's Jam or Dastardly Crack.

Blood, Sweat, and Smears has great moves, amazing position, but sadly is quite dirty. If more people climb it and clean it up there is no doubt that it would be a Portland Area CLASSIC, but until it and its approach pitch get cleaner I think its a bit committing.

Location

Just to the right of the Third Tunnel. To approach Blood, Sweat, and Smears we climbed Reasonable Richard (very mossy and lichen covered, questionable pro, but would be very fun if cleaned).
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has the obvious small triangle roof in its dihedral.

Protection

Double set of nuts, including extra small stoppers (#3 - #5 BD). Set of cams from #1 - #6 Metolius. Garden Gloves.

Photos

Stephen Sh
Portland
  5.10d
Stephen Sh   Portland
  5.10d
Blood Sweat and Smears is one of my favorite Beacon routes, but as the description notes and ahparker confirmed, in recent years it’s been dirty, overgrown and furry with grey lichen. Not so encouraging. Last weekend BSS got a long deserved cleaning. We pruned out the shrubbery down to the roots, gardened out the grasses and blackberries, and brushed the grey lichen off of the smears. BSS is now more protectable with the crack cleaned out and more climbable with positive smears.

My gear for the route - doubles in BD Camalots 0.3 to 1, a single #2, small to medium stoppers, tricams 0.25 to 1, and some additional thin finger to finger sizes in 3-cam units (Metolius and BD). A fixed pin 10’ from the belay protects the first difficult moves until you can get good gear in. The crack starts as a thin seam and slowly increases in size from thin fingers thru hands over the course of 50 meters. It’s a 50m rap from the BBS anchors down to the Reasonable Richard anchors.

We also cleaned up the approach pitch to BSS – Reasonable Richard (5.9, 40 meters). RR had become overgrown with a thick carpet of moss, blackberries and shrubs. We cleaned it and excavated cracks for slotting gear and a couple of fixed pins from under the moss carpet. It is now quite reasonable. Sep 6, 2016
ahparker
Portland, OR
ahparker   Portland, OR
Very appropriate name for this route, I was certainly doing all three. If you could work "calf pump" into the name somewhere it'd be spot on. I found Matt's description accurate. Lots of lichen but the climbing is actually fantastic. I ran out of appropriate sized gear in the middle section before the hands section at the top so it felt a little more strenuous/spicy than it should have. A few extra finger sized pieces like .3-.5 BD should do the trick. In addition to the rack suggestion, I was also able to drop in some #2 and #3 BD's, especially toward the top. 3's are probably not super necessary but I was happy to have one. Keep in mind it's a longish pitch at about 165 feet with smallish tinkery gear to fingers to hands at the top. If this gets cleaned up I'd agree it will be a total classic. Oct 9, 2015

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