Avg: 3.6 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m)|
|FA:||Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 1977|
|Page Views:||1,618 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||peachy spohn on Jul 24, 2013 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
Commence up left from the belay, get some tricky gear in, pull up onto the small square ledge, and get your smear on for the next 160 feet. The crux comes about 30-40 feet up, getting up a smooth section of the dihedral and through a small roof. Up higher, you'll have to navigate around a small sapling before hitting a perfect layback splitter to the Big Ledge.
Once on the Big Ledge finish up Dod's Jam or Dastardly Crack.
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has great moves, amazing position, but sadly is quite dirty. If more people climb it and clean it up there is no doubt that it would be a Portland Area CLASSIC, but until it and its approach pitch get cleaner I think its a bit committing.
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has the obvious small triangle roof in its dihedral.