Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Odin Grano. Aug.8.2020.|
|Page Views:||170 total · 69/month|
|Shared By:||OG on Aug 8, 2020|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
The beautiful seam just left of Beacon Tower.
P1. 10c . 80'
Climb the first pitch or wild turkeys to a slopping ledge. Standard beacon crack in a corner.
P2. 13a. 120'
The money pitch. Climb off the belay with an interesting stemming move and into the seam and corner above. Technical and thought provoking, this pitch has some of the best climbing I have found at beacon.
Originally an old TR that, according to Tim Olsen, 'may or may have been climbed clean'. After TRing the route last summer with Matt, I decided to give it an attempt on all natural gear- I bailed halfway up the climb realizing that the route, particularly the upper section, needed bolts to be safe
This route now sports 6 new bolts protecting the cruxes and is a safe, yet demanding lead.
Get after it!