Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dean Caldwell, Chuck Erwin, 1965
Page Views: 107 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

The original start takes you up through some very large detached flakes. Not recommended. Otherwise start up the first 20' of Spring Fever and step right at the first ledge. Climb a short crack and mantel onto the next ledge below the 5" crack. Climb this chimney-style, bumping the #5 as you go. Near the top you will be forced to switch to the right and climb to the top of the pillar, and back down the other side. Rope drag will be pretty bad, but make sure you ditch that #5 late so your second doesn't take a heinous swing out of the crack and around the corner...

This route shares anchors with Tenacee Stemming and Seagull and is thus a great climb for putting top-ropes on these harder gems.

Originally this route continued across the ledges, around a corner into an easy crack, and joined up with Right Gull. Rockfall in 2016 seems to have erased that boring option completely.

Location

Just right of the First Tunnel, just left of the stem-box routes like Tenacee Stemming

Protection

Gear to 5", including small nuts and one #5 if you're comfortable bumping

The anchor consists of new (2016) webbing with rap rings around the top of the pillar, a single Metolius rap bolt, and a bomber piton. Build your anchor off the bolt and piton, and rap off the bolt and webbing.

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